Melanie Hawkins in Rotorua

Melanie Hawkins went searching for the unexpected in Rotorua. Driving into Rotorua on a beautiful winter afternoon, I caught a glimpse of the Agrodome and Rainbow & Fairy Springs signs. My mind flashed back to my childhood and the wonderful family trips we had to this region. I’m sure that nearly every New Zealander has been to Rotorua at some point. It’s our thriving cultural zone, natural volcanic wonderland and home to a bounty of beautiful lakes. For this trip, I was in pursuit of an ‘unexpected’ Rotorua and was going to be staying in three of the region’s most luxurious properties.

First up was Lake Okareka Lodge by Lebua Hotels and Resorts. Discreet and hidden away, this exclusive retreat is for those wanting privacy from the world and to be surrounded by nature and tranquillity. Think space – there is so much of it with the expanse of lake that makes the lodge location on a secluded peninsula quite spectacular. There are only three large suites which combined can accommodate up to nine guests at a time. A relatively new concept for New Zealand, Lake Okareka offers only single bookings which are ideal for extended family groups, couples celebrating an event or indulgent honeymooners.

Taking nearly a year to renovate, titivate and re-launch as the epitome of luxury, there has been no expense spared at Lake Okareka Lodge – opulent furniture, silent central heating/air conditioning, multi-room audio system, 800 thread count bed linen, Bvlgari amenities, dedicated spa suite, high-tech gym, baby grand piano, climate controlled wine cellar, private use of jet ski and outdoor Jacuzzi to name just a few.

The suite furnishings are an interesting mix of sheen and plaid with the use of light and dark shades to accent the masculine and feminine aspects of the room. Dark wood furniture is softened with light coloured panelled walls featuring a floral motif. There is much attention to detail in the suites, including the lighting, and all spaces take advantage of the sweeping views. An oversized bathroom and large walk–in wardrobe with ample drawers and cupboards to spread out and unpack for your stay help to make you feel truly at home.

The lodge has a dedicated chef, David Robinson who creates personalised breakfasts, lunches and five course dinners which form part of the all inclusive tariff. Some of the meal highlights for me included an entrée of New Zealand scampi with Wasabi mayonnaise accompanied by a salad of daikon, mungbean sprouts and coriander and a delicious dessert of French chocolate cake with liquorice ice cream – very decadent indeed!

In places like this, you can’t help but want to immerse yourself in the natural surrounds – whether it be cycling, fishing, kayaking or walking. I took a short stroll down the road to the start of the Lake Okareka boardwalk and on a crisp winter morning the area was teaming with native birdlife and beautiful countryside portraits. It’s a wonderful idea to be able to walk through the reeds and rushes and get amongst the local inhabitants while still keeping your feet dry the entire time.

At Lake Okareka Lodge the service I experienced was excellent. The 24-hour butler staff are attentive without being overbearing and exude a genuine ‘Kiwi’ persona – warm in their manner and professional in their service. And being on the lookout for ‘unexpected’ elements, I was pleasantly surprised when I was presented with a fully valeted car on the morning of my departure. It’s these sorts of things that stay in your mind and set the ‘exceptional’ apart.

After checking out, my appetite for the water had been triggered and I found myself boarding Pure Cruises’ catamaran, Tiua, the only one of its kind on Lake Rotoiti. This luxurious beauty is a great way to see what the lake has to offer and combined with Tina and Matt’s wonderful hospitality, probably one of the best cruises available. We visited the natural hot springs located at Manupirua (only accessible by boat), bathed, relaxed and enjoyed a wonderful lunch and afternoon onboard.

Next on my list was the famed Solitare Lodge and the scenic drive alongside Rotorua’s well known Blue and Green Lakes really whets the appetite for the lodge’s location, perched commandingly on a private peninsula on Lake Tarawera. The arrival here is also discreet and welcoming and all suites have glorious views. With the sun glistening on the cool lake waters and the unique sound of a tui’s chattering melody breaking through the otherwise silent surrounds, you can’t help but wind down a notch or two.

My suite looked out over the lake to Mt Tarawera and beyond and as I gazed out to the setting sun, I found myself thinking that this historic land formation reminded me of the awe-inspiring Uluru in Australia’s heartland. If you have ever travelled to Uluru and watched the sunlight and shadow play on the rock, then you’ll know exactly what I mean. Solitaire was New Zealand’s first purpose-built lodge in the 1970s and still retains a respected place. Owner, Wayne Tomlinson and his wife, Ingrid Jaques, exude a heart-warming charm and Assistant Manager, Graeme Fairey, has taken ownership of the dedicated New Zealand wine selection and will advise matching with your meal. The main lodge lounge has a comfortable and homely feel with a roaring fireplace above which sits a stunning original painting of the long gone but not forgotten pink terraces; the natural formation that was destroyed along with the white terraces when Mt Tarawera erupted in 1886.

At Solitare, you can stay cocooned in your suite and emerge only when the delicious food is served (my vanilla scented French toast and homemade preserves were mouthwatering), or you can wrap up and explore the surroundings by foot on one of the many walking tracks or by helicopter, floatplane or boat – it’s really up to you.

I wandered down through the bush, observing the brilliant lime green moss beds, the morning dew adorning lush green fern fronds and the dense undergrowth that puts you in awe of how the early settlers brokered their way through the difficult terrain. The track emerged onto the stony lakeshore with crystal clear and icy cool water gently lapping and a view beyond that was picture perfect.

Allow Wayne or one of the boat cruise companies in the area to take you on a thrilling jet ride over Lake Tarawera. We went early in the morning and encountered heavy mist, which made the trip so much more eerie and interesting. We explored some scenic bays and then headed to the lake’s own ‘hot water beach’. I’m a real fan of the acclaimed Hot Water Beach in the Coromandel region but I was very impressed with this lake’s sizzling gem. Untouched and a fine example of a natural wonder to be enjoyed exactly as it is. Lie in the lakeside shallows, dip into a naturally formed rock pool or a little further on, rest within a heated stream under shady trees.

Solitaire Lodge is a New Zealand icon and Wayne is planning a renovation of the suites soon that will convert some of the 1970s architecture – considered trendy at the time – into a format that is more suited to today and will only add to the overall package that Solitare has to offer.

It had been years since I’d visited the Polynesian Spa and so a trip into town was next. With over 130 years of thermal bathing history and a world-famous reputation, the spa has a number of shared or private pools to choose from containing either shallow-spring acidic water or deep-spring alkaline water ranging from 36-42°C. I for one could feel the benefits of these naturally heated therapeutic waters soaking into my skin and inner being and could see why they are regularly voted as a World Top Ten medical and thermal day spa by readers of Condé Nast Traveller. Spa mud therapies and hydro spa treatments are also on the menu and a visit to the spa shop is a must as it has one of the most comprehensive selections of ranges I have ever seen.

Feeling relaxed and chilled, it was back on the road and off to Treetops Lodge & Wilderness Estate. The vision of owner, John Sax, was to build not just a lodge but also a wilderness sanctuary. You certainly get a sense of that on the glorious drive through native bush on part of the 2500-hectare property. You arrive feeling like you really have stepped away from the world. A grand entrance of flowing water, rocks, native fauna and commanding carved wooden doors adorned with ornate trout handles entices you inside to an impressive space. Views out to the bush-clad property beyond catch your eye but it is the ceiling height that is most striking in the grand room and the abundance of artefacts and artwork that captures the essence of New Zealand.

My villa was nestled only a short walk from the main lodge and elevated so that I really did get the sense of being within a bush canopy. Slate columns accented the rich furnishings and an open fire created a welcome setting to retreat back to.

The estate has over 70km of hiking trails, mountain bike tracks, horse treks and 4-wheel driving plus clay target shooting, stream or lake fishing and hunting. You can get as innovative as you like and really immerse yourself into what this magnificent environment has to offer. Or you can stay around the main lodge house and enjoy each room that has its own unique appeal – the comprehensive library, traditional games room, the day room for quiet reflection or the communal kitchen that serves up a number of tempting treats throughout the day.

I was up for a really humbling experience in the afternoon and it was my pleasure to venture out with Chef Eru on a walk through the bush. I learnt all about edible plants and their other uses for healing and medicinal purposes that date back into Maori heritage. We looked for and gathered Kareao (Supplejack) vine – the young stems can be eaten raw and taste similar to green beans, Horopiko plant – the leaves are chopped up and added to food for a hot spicy flavour, and Pikopiko fronds from the Manku (Hen & Chicken) fern as we slowly made our way to the property’s aptly named Bridal Veil Falls. The falls were a truly magnificent sight and added a sense of connectedness between us and the land as Eru prepared our ‘hangi in a pan’ using Manuka branches to add a smoky flavour, Patete leaves to cover the food, followed by wet potato sacking. The end result, served with Kawakawa leaf tea sweetened with Manuka honey was a delicious profusion of flavours that made me exclaim, “This is the best hangi I’ve ever tasted!”

Part of the charm of this experience was Chef Eru’s knowledge and personality and also his way of bringing you closer to understanding and respecting the land and her abundance. Having only just touched the surface of what Treetops Lodge has to offer, I really do look forward to being able to visit again with more time to really explore this abundant estate.

It was the end of my trip and I’d discovered a new Rotorua – a plentiful oasis on our doorstep that can give you a different experience every time you visit. I suggest you make a trip there soon and embrace the beauty and abundance that is Rotorua and at the same time open your mind to the lodge experience. New Zealanders can be a little shy about this type of accommodation but we needn’t be. It’s people that add so much to a travel experience and when staying at a lodge you could learn first hand from the owner the intimate history about the site and the lodge’s reason for being and even share each other’s life stories. Or if cuisine is more your thing then you have the opportunity to converse directly with the chef and be inspired by their passion. And then there are the guests – you never know where in the world they may be from. But it’s not all about the interaction either. Private dining is offered by most lodges nowadays and if you are more into getting some much needed R&R, they won’t interfere. It’s at lodges that you arrive as a guest and leave as a friend with a host of unique and personal memories of your stay.