Head to Hua Hin

Hire a bike and see the hinterland close up
Hire a bike and see the hinterland close up

Europe is cooling down but with Southeast Asia’s tropical climate just beginning to deliver its most attractive travel season, there’s no reason not to pack your bags and head to a very special Thai destination.

Hua Hin, about an hour south of Bangkok by train on the country’s main trunk line, abuts the Gulf of Thailand, and stretches out along 6km of pure white sand beaches lapped by water that is practically bath temperature! A city of around 50,000, Hua Hin is popular with Scandinavians who flock there to escape their harsh winter, which may account for its golfing opportunities and numerous clinics which offer everything from foot massages, fish-spas, cut-price cosmetic and dental surgeries, and affordable opticians’ services. But if this doesn’t appeal, don’t be concerned – Hua Hin has so much more!

Hire a bike and see the hinterland close up
Hire a bike and see the hinterland close up

Surrounded by pineapple plantations and rice fields, its immediate environs offer fabulous sight-seeing tours – the best of which are undertaken on bicycles. As you pedal, keep your eyes peeled for horticultural workers sporting those iconic bamboo hats in the shape of lightshades, and bring your bird identification guide with you. In this watery landscape, our feathered friends are everywhere, and herons, ibis and egrets are a familiar sight wading through the marshy rice paddies.

Check out the spices at Chatchai market
Check out the spices at Chatchai market

In Hua Hin itself, the Chatchai market is a must-see. This local fresh produce hall in the middle of town opens at 6am and runs through until midday. Take your time gazing at the spicy, colourful condiments heaped into mounds on the counters of the market’s little stalls, and bring along your tropical fruit and veg identification app to add to the browsing enjoyment.

As the market shuts down for the day, it’s the turn of the vendors outside to open the hatches of their street food carts. Take your time selecting lunch – but we recommend you don’t leave without a serving of stir-fried morning glory – a delicious green served in a spicy, garlicky soy sauce (just be sure to leave room for a dessert bowl of sticky rice and mango).

 

When the market closes head for the street vendors
When the market closes head for the street vendors

If you didn’t arrive in Hua Hin by train, a treat awaits you when you pay a visit to the city’s iconic station. With its perfectly painted buildings, topiaries and flower baskets, it’s a model railway station in every sense of the word – which is perfectly understandable once you realise it must be fit for a king – literally! Hua Hin hosts the King of Thailand’s Summer Palace, and the king has his own private waiting room on the station platform.

 

The Kings private waiting room at Hua Hin railway station.
The Kings private waiting room at Hua Hin railway station.

If you’re a royalist at heart, you may also like to pay a visit to Rajabhakti Park, the royal family’s private gardens which are open to the public for pleasure and exercise each day from 8am-6pm (modest dress is essential).

Evening dining in Hua Hin brings is an experience not to be missed – especially if you eat at any of the seafront restaurants when the royal family is in residence. It’s at this auspicious time that you’ll be sure to spot the king’s protective battleship anchored offshore and decorated in hundreds of pretty fairy lights. But if the battleship isn’t on duty – don’t be concerned. Any of the tasty dishes containing Thai basil will more than makeup for it – as will a refreshing glass of lemon-nam (iced lemon syrup with soda water). As Europe is winding down, Hua Hin awaits – and what a treat it is!