Beautiful Bridal Veil

Even in its relatively gentle state, it’s a waterfall that is very impressive.

Maybe, in late July or mid-August, just after we’ve had one of those slashing winter deluges that blot out the horizon beyond 500 metres, I’ll go back out to the falls and take another look – they would be spectacular when the usually quiet little Pakoka River is running a banker.

But just a few weeks ago, a small gathering of 60 or so stood or sat, briefly hatless as karakia were said, and then listened in polite silence as several speakers talked of the history and the attractiveness of what for some time has been known as the Bridal Veil Falls. Now, as part of a general access track refurbishing and upgrade, and a greater awareness of Maori ownership and tradition surrounding the falls, they have been officially given the title of “Wairenga” (water of the underworld).

Access is easy these days. Where once there was a narrow, metalled road, now it’s tarsealed and well sign-posted off the Raglan road, and there’s a good off-road parking area with room for a dozen or more vehicles. There’s a little picnic-area tucked into the bush edge adjacent to the carpark, and Doc has thoughtfully also installed a quality toilet block nearby.

The falls are certainly worth a visit, and the completely reconstructed track means even those confined to a wheelchair have easy access to a viewing platform that sits right at the mouth of the river as it tumbles over the vertical 55-metre drop. But it’s not until you get to the bottom and look back up that the massive concave rock formation which forms the amphitheatre into which the falls tumble becomes apparent.

At the foot of the towering rock wall is a 5.5-metre deep pool into which the river pours its heart, but smart-aleck daredevils are advised not to be tempted to try the dive. It’s easy enough to do – but there’s a big slab of rock not far under the surface in the centre of the pool, and it’s probably a little thicker than anyone who decides to jump in from the top.

During the korero for the opening ceremony, guests were told how early Maori from the nearby Motakotako Marae came to marvel at the falls, and to gather tuna and koura from the river.  The bush around the region had teemed with kaka, even as late as early last century, and although few native birds now live in the 218ha of forest reserve around the falls, Doc’s Waikato Conservator Greg Martin was hopeful they could some day be reintroduced.

Mr Martin said the area was first designated a scenic reserve in 1952, but in those early days it was something of a battle to get through the bush to view the falls.  I have vague recollections of my brother and I, as two small boys, inching our heads and shoulders out over the rock ledge beside the top of the falls so we could see down to the bottom – and being rather miffed when our horrified mother urged us quietly but very firmly back, and then gripped an arm in each vice-like hand and hauled us back to the car.

Mr Martin said a chemist by the name of Powell was the first European to see the falls, back in 1870. The round journey from Raglan took three days, but 10 years later Te Mata residents cut a track into the area so visitors could see the falls, and in 1885 far-sighted authorities set aside the present 218ha of bush around the falls as a forest reserve.

That piece of bush is now home to some good specimens of rewarewa, rimu, tawa, karamu, mahoe and maybe a big, old-man kahikatea or two.

Mr Martin also noted that a small area around the base of the falls is home to a tiny and unique native orchid, which is another reason why visitors to the area are encouraged to stick to the track and boardwalks. The little orchid also put a stop to the sport of abseiling down the cliff-face over which the falls drop, as too much foot-traffic at the base of the cliff was destroying the fragile wee plant’s habitat.

A total of $300,000 has been spent on doing up the track and putting in extensive and expansive boardwalks and viewing platforms. 

There are 135 steps down to a midway viewing point, and a total of 261 steps to the bottom where a wide and substantial platform allows visitors the chance to stand and gawp at the falls but not get in the road of others taking photos. That lower platform is big enough to easily hold 50 people. 

Sturdy handrails on both sides of the steps down and along the bottom path help considerably to ensure there are no accidental falls, and, subtly, they also keep people on the tracks so they don’t trample tiny orchids. Doc people have done a very good job of it all.

And there’s a surprisingly large number of visitors to the falls – almost a thousand a week. While our small gathering was there for an official opening a variety of international visitors turned up, in camper vans and cars, including three generations of an Asian family who were bug-eyed at the scenery, chattering, pointing and taking a million photos.

The track in off the road is an easy, pleasant 10-minute walk through mature native bush where huge clumps of epiphytes hang precariously off many of the big trees, and ponga and delicate little ferns are peppered through the lower storey.

There are too, several interpretation panels along the track and at the top of the falls, which add a little extra perspective to the attraction.

We tend often to drive right past these local places of interest, vaguely wondering as we do why so many obviously tourist sightseers are stopping to take a look.

They’ve done the research – there’s plenty of good things to see, right here in our own back yard.

Read more from Kingsley Field here 

Kingsley Field can be contacted at kingsley(at)accuwrite.co.nz  His first volume of these columns was published recently, and he is now working on Volume II.