Fish ‘n’ No Chips

 Read more from Gerald

As we all know there are fish and chips and fish and chips; on one hand the lightly battered or crumbed fresh fish and hand-cut crisp and golden chips which expertly cooked in clean oil can be one of life's culinary delights and on the other hand the greasy fry of soggy fish and limp grey chips dripping with the oil of their forefathers, which can't. But fish is such a delicious, versatile and healthy food that it deserves so much more respect and care when it is prepared or cooked and it should be the star ingredient of any dish in which it is used.

I'm not suggesting that all fish should be enjoyed raw as sashimi, for sadly much of the fish one can buy would often not be fresh enough for that and catching it oneself is not always an option. A careful touch with the stronger ingredients in a recipe is what is needed, allowing the delicate flavour of the fish to make its contribution. The nearest I get to cooking fish and chips at home is to panfry flour-dusted fillets of fish with a few oven chips and a salad.

A favourite fish dish of mine which is perfect for dinner, supper or lunch is the Provençal fish soup/stew called bourride. There are so many versions of it, some extravagant and expensive and others, just as delicious, well within a family budget. Some recipes call for several types of fish, even crayfish, lobster, prawns and scallops but I like to keep things a bit simpler and affordable so unless it is for a high day or holiday, I just use monkfish. It may not be the most beautiful fish to look at but it tastes fine and the texture is ideal.

One thing the dish does require and this can be made well beforehand, is a good aioli; I don't mean bought mayonnaise with a bit of chopped garlic added but a proper, thick, homemade one using with eggs and olive oil. This recipe for it does cheat a little by using whole eggs rather than just yolks but makes up for that for almost never separating. It was given to me by my dear friend, the late Michael Haigh, that lovely actor who played Jim in "Gliding On".

Jim's Aioli

2 eggs
3 tbsp wine vinegar or lemon juice
1 tsp salt
3 cloves garlic – peeled – more or less to taste
2 cups oil – I like olive oil but soy or sunflower oils are milder

In a food processor or with a stick blender, blend the eggs, vinegar/lemon juice, salt and garlic and while you are doing this slowly drizzle in the oil. If it is not thick enough blend in a little more oil. Put in a jar or covered bowl and store in the fridge until required.

The bourride itself is easy if a little fussy… but well worth the effort.

Bourride

¼ cup olive oil
500g fish bones, heads etc. – white fish, don't use salmon or other oily fish
1 small onion – peeled and finely chopped
1 carrot – peeled and finely chopped
¼ cup chopped fennel bulb or stems
1 leek – white only, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic – peeled
1 large tomato – chopped
1 bouquet garni – parsley, thyme and bay
500ml water
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
60ml cream
300g monkfish – cut into large, thick chunks
1 cup aioli
Flat leaf parsley for garnish
Lemon wedges

Warm the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat then add the fish bones and heads etc. Lower the heat and allow them to cook for 5 or so minutes, then add the vegetables and garlic and continue cooking for about another 5 minutes. To this add the bouquet garni and water and season. Bring it to a boil then allow it to simmer gently for half an hour.

After this time discard the bouquet garni and sieve the remainder into a clean saucepan pressing well so that as much of the vegetables come though as possible. Bring it back to a boil, pour in the cream and cook for about 10 minutes over a high heat to reduce slightly. Lower the heat and carefully add the fish then cook gently for 10 minutes without allowing it to boil.

When cooked remove the fish to plates or a serving dish and keep warm. Heat the sauce to boiling. Spoon the aioli into a bowl and then slowly pour the hot liquid over it, stirring all the time. Pour this sauce over the fish, garnish with chopped parsley and lemon wedges and serve. It can be served with toasted or fried bread croûtes or boiled or steamed baby new potatoes.

Serves 4.

Some recipes call for saffron, chillies, chicken stock, orange peel and white wine but this simple version works for me and the fish remains the star. I did find one interesting variation though which I will try one day and that is to substitute the fish for chicken.

Back on the subject of fish; if you are a fisherman or are lucky enough to have a source of super fresh local fish and love cooking and eating it, I thoroughly recommend Al Brown's wonderful book "Go Fish". Quite apart from the inspired recipes and the oh-so-helpful "How To" pages, it is a really good read. I understand it is to be released early in August in paperback.

Go Fish by Al Brown
Published by Random House
RRP $49.99 paperback
(Available August 2013)