Just Like Mama Used to Make

 Read more from Gerald

When I was a kid in London, macaroni was cooked with milk and sugar like rice pudding, spaghetti came in tins and we dusted our minestrone with the grated Parmesan that came in the same packet as the soup. How Italian, we thought!

Nowadays people have a better idea of what Italian food should be, although sadly, to many it's still just pasta and pizza but with good Italian cooking, all roads lead to home. In today's heat-and-eat society where the ability to cook is considered not so much a necessity as a sort of social skill, much as being able to dance the valeta was by our grandparents, Italian families still go to the trouble of making the old and loved recipes.

 
Ingredients are chosen with care, only the best; only the freshest, from markets where the people selling take pride in their goods, respect the seasons and know their customers, something that's almost unheard of in today’s supermarkets. Back in the kitchen these ingredients are prepared and cooked carefully as they have been for generations and then eaten in good company with appreciation, pleasure and a glass or two of wine. Italians have a passion and respect for their food; they rejoice in cooking it and celebrate eating it.

I was surprised, though not displeased, to see that several of the leading foodie magazines available in the shops had chosen to feature Italian cooking in their latest issues so I thought I would follow the trend and share one or two Italian recipes that I enjoy.

Gatto Di Patate

1kg Agria or similar potatoes
120ml milk
100g butter
Nutmeg
75g parmesan – freshly grated
3 eggs – free-range are best
200g mozzarella – sliced or grated
100g prosciutto or other good ham – thinly sliced
100g Mortadella or soft salami – thinly sliced
6tbsp dried white breadcrumbs
Butter for topping
Salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Heat the oven to 200˚C.

Peel the potatoes and boil in lightly salted water until just cooked, drain then put in a bowl. Heat the milk and add to the potatoes with 80g of the butter then mash until smooth. Stir in a generous grating of pepper, a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg and the parmesan. Taste and add a little salt if required. Add the eggs and mix well. Grease a cake tin or ovenproof dish with the remaining 20g of butter and sprinkle the base with 3-4 tablespoons of the breadcrumbs. Spoon in half of the potato mixture, lay the mozzarella, prosciutto and Mortadella on top then cover with the remaining potato mixture. Dot the top with butter and sprinkle with the remaining breadcrumbs. Cook in the oven for about 30 minutes or until golden on top and hot in the middle. Allow it to rest for a few minutes before serving. This is a lovely supper dish on its own or ideal for lunch with a salad.

Serves 4 – 6.

As a vegetarian alternative, onions, garlic and Portobello mushrooms all gently cooked in a little olive oil with some chopped parsley could replace the prosciutto and Mortadella.

Saltimbocca di Pollo

 
2 chicken breasts – skinned and boned
2 slices of prosciutto – or thin slices of other good ham
40g thinly sliced Gruyere or similar cheese
6 fresh sage leaves – do not use dried sage
1tbsp plain flour
1tbsp olive oil
10g butter
120ml Marsala or sweet sherry – you can use port at a pinch
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the chicken breasts between sheets of cling film or in a plastic bag and flatten them using a rolling pin or heavy based pan (I use a bread board). Season the chicken then lay the prosciutto and Gruyere on each breast and over this lay the sage leaves. Fold the breasts in half and dust them all over with the flour.

In a heavy frypan heat the oil and butter and cook the chicken for about 3 minutes on each side or until golden. Add the wine and cover (if the pan has no lid, you can use foil) and continue cooking over a medium heat for 5 or so minutes until the chicken is fully cooked. When cooked, set the chicken aside and keep warm. Reduce the liquid in the pan then pour it over the chicken and serve with polenta or potatoes and fresh season’s vegetables.

Serves 2.

There had to be one pasta recipe… of course.

Pasta con Salsiccia, Oliva e Capperi

800g fresh Italian-style pork and fennel sausages – the best available
2tbsp olive oil
3 cloves garlic – peeled and crushed
Fresh red chilli to taste – seeded and chopped
4tbsp tomato paste
200ml dry white wine
1 400g tin chopped Italian tomatoes
2tbsp capers – rinsed and dried
30 or so good black olives – bought whole then pitted and chopped
500g penne pasta
1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
200g freshly grated Parmesan

Peel the skins from the sausages. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the sausage meat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon. Add the garlic, chilli and tomato paste, stir and cook for a minute or two. Add the white wine then drain the chopped tomatoes and add them to the pan. Stir in the olives and capers and leave to simmer for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile cook the pasta and when cooked add about a quarter of a cup of the water to the sauce. Drain the pasta and return it to its pan.

Check the seasoning of the sauce then pour it over the pasta. Gently stir in half of the parsley and serve on hot plates and sprinkled with the Parmesan and remaining parsley.

Serves 5 – 6.

Autumn is a wonderful time to enjoy the warmth and rich culinary diversity of Italian food so turn your back on that New York Hawaiian pizza with sausage filled crust and extra pineapple and give the real thing a go.