DIY Handyman Q & A

Chris Bennett is our resident HandyMan here at GrownUps, offering fantastic DIY advice in his column. 

Sadly, I cannot give you a guaranteed solution to your problem. Most professionals I have met say there’s only one way to remove the stains and that is to sand them out as far as possible without damaging the furniture.

However, you may try the following home remedies that I’ve heard about but I cannot guarantee they will work or cause their own stains so proceed with care.

1. Check at your local pet store as they may have a propriety brand of cleaner you could try.
2. A paste of baking soda and white vinegar spread over the stain, leave to dry then wipe off.
3. Ask your chemist for a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide ( 3 to 5 % mixture), rub over the stains and leave till dry.

If you try a couple of these make sure that you wash the area between each attempt as some chemicals do not mix well.

Thanks,

Chris.

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Q
Hi Chris

Q
Hi Chris,

We have an ex-state house type home which has concrete tiles on the roof and last year I cleaned and painted them. The ceiling has been insulated with ceiling batts. However, the roof void is very airy because of the nature of how the tiles are fitted together.

I was planing to run Sisalation on the underside of the tiles to reduce heat loss. The Sisalation could go on the underside of the purlins or rafters. Have you any comments or advice on what I’m attempting to do.

I am not sure if I would be interfering with the ventilation of the roof void in a negative way.

Thanks

Kind regards
Garry

A
Hi Garry

As far as I’m aware, without physically seeing the roof space, there shouldn’t be any problem with your idea of using Sisalation.

Sisalation is an insulation foil or sarking which is designed to go under the roofing. It helps with weatherproofing (under tiles more than steel) and reduces summer heat being radiated into the roof space.

Ventilation could be improved and use the warm air from the roof space by fitting a DVS system or similar. BRANZ also have some interesting information about roof space ventilation which you can find here.

The only thing I would suggest is to check with your local council as to any requirements they might have under the new building codes. I hate saying this but it seems that every time a person picks up a hammer and nail these days you need a compliance certificate or a registered building practitioner!

Have a great day
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

I was wondering if you can help with advice about our 1930s, concrete-walled stucco art deco house?

We have taken the ceilings off in two rooms because they were growing a lot of mould, and now we can see a lot of water coming into the house. We have had a roofer in several times and now he’s done everything he can think of. The water is still coming in and the roofer thinks it’s coming through the concrete walls. Our house is constructed with two concrete walls – the outer one is about 6 inches thick, there’s a gap and then the inner one is about 2 inches thick. They meet up the top near the roof and some of the water appears to come through the outer wall and travel to the inner wall and then into the wood framing.

We’ve been to the hardware shop and looked at options for paint-on solutions. As far as we can tell there seem to be two sets of options. (1) A solvent-borne clear acrylic sealer that covers 10m2/litre, can go on top of the existing paint, dries clear and needs to go on a dry wall (which might be difficult).  (2) Water-proofing membranes such as latex or polyurethane that cover 1 or 2m2/litre, can go onto a wet surface if need be, however, recommend removing the old paint first.

We’re not sure what kind of paint the house is painted with at the moment. It is in moderate condition however there are breaks in the seal in many places. We would happily have the whole house repainted if we knew what the best solution was. Can you offer any advice?

Thanks very much,
Sophie

A
Hi Sophie

Wow! It’s been a long time since I’ve said this but I have no choice on this one, a problem of the severity you describe needs to be looked at by a professional builder. Waterproofing can actually cause more damage than you cure if it locks in the water ingress. So it’s really important to locate exactly where and how the water comes in and repair that fault. From what you describe the water ingress quite substantial.

It may help to have a look at this site.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

Can you help?

I have just acquired an old rimu and cedar sideboard which has had a very hard life at one stage. It has had an oil type finish at some stage and the top of it is rimu. The top is/was badly watermarked – probably some clown watered pot plants and let the excess water slowly find its way over the saucer and seep into the rimu over a long period. I have heavily sanded the top to see how bad the stains are and am now left with grey marks. Is there a product/way I can remove or lessen these marks.

Thanks,
Christine

A
Hi Christine

There are many ideas and theories about removing water stains from wooden furniture most of which work through using heat generated by friction ( ie hard polishing using a mild abrasive such as toothpaste) or direct heat using an iron. Success in many cases depends on how quickly you work on the stain after the water spill. Removing old stains needs an element of good luck in the process as well!

First try using a  mild abrasive such as toothpaste, brass cleaner (Brasso) or very fine steel wool (0000 grade).

With the exception of the steel wool, which you use by itself, use a soft cloth and the abrasive of your choice and buff vigorously in the direction of the grain. If this fails try using a hot iron. Put a clean, white cloth over the stained area. Using a hot iron (not on the steam setting) and iron over the cloth. Keep the iron constantly moving over the cloth to avoid scorching. Apply the iron for about 10 seconds at a time. Check regularly to see if the stain is disappearing. If this doesn’t work it may be that the water penetration into the wood has left behind a growth of mildew. Try the following method (taking all the usual precautions when using bleach). Apply a small amount of bleach to the stain Let the bleach sit for 15 minutes, then wipe it away with a clean cloth. Repeat until there is no more stain.

As I said at the beginning, removal of old stains does require an element of good luck so if none of the above work for you then clean up the piece as best as possible re-polish or re-stain the surface of the wood with a tone that disguises the stain a much as possible.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

Please, would you tell me how to empty the water out of the toilet bowl in order to remove the calcium water deposit? I would like to treat it using the product CLR.

Also is there any way to remove the white hot-water overflow mark from a colour-coated roof?

Many thanks, Chris!!

Sincerely
Buffy

A
Hi Buffy

To empty your toilet bowl use a plunger in the pan and work it up and down until the water disappears. Another method is to turn off the cistern water supply, the tap for this is usually situated in the pipe that feeds the cistern, flush the toilet so that all the water is then drained from the tank. Now fill a bucket with water and pour this from about waist height into the pan. The toilet should now empty itself by gravity flow.

The white deposit by the hot water overflow is more than likely the same lime/calcium staining as in your toilet. You can use the same product to remove it as for the toilet. Two words of caution, though:

(1) Because the lime or calcium stains are alkaline the product to remove it is acidic so be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instruction carefully including protective clothing.

(2) If you decide to clean the roof yourself make sure you take all the safety precautions for working at height.

Information about roof safety can be found on the OSH website here.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I’m sure you have been asked many times, but could you please give some advice on deterring cats from fouling our lawns and gardens? I know there are repellents available on the market, but these are too expensive to use on a wide area.

I believe the time has come for a curfew on cats and that they should be registered.

Thank you,
John.

A
Hi John

First, let me apologise for the time taken to respond to your question, unfortunately, this happens sometimes during the Christmas and summer holidays, things tend to get misplaced.

Indeed the issue with cat’s toilet habits is a perennial question and the answer is still as difficult.  Licensing of cats is a very contentious issue amongst cat lovers. My attitude is simple; if you care enough for your animals you will keep them under control and not allow them to foul other people’s property. I have three dogs and the only fouling they do is in our own garden which is cleaned up every day!

Enough of my rant! I have yet to find a proprietary repellent that works and believe me  I have tried a few over the years.  The only thing I have found that works are partially burying pill bottles of Cloudy Ammonia in the most affected areas.

Simply gather some old pill bottles (glass or plastic) and bore a hole in the lids then half fill with ammonia and bury them in the garden with the lids exposed to let out the ammonia fumes.  This will give the cats the idea that a larger animal has marked the territory as their own and scare them off.

Or, I suppose, you could get a dog to roam the garden at night!

(As usual please be careful handling any chemicals and carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions particularly where children and animals have access to the chemical.)

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Dear Chris

I have a lovely antique brass fire screen which I had lacquered. Got back from a trip to find what I can only think is a cat spray.

It is on the mesh and green colour, I have washed it brassoed it scrubbed, no luck. Beginning to think the only way is to get new mesh.

Have you any other ideas? Did not try the spirits of salts.

Regards
Lynne

A
Hi Lynne

I really don’t have an answer for this one but if it happened to me I would try both extremes of acid and alkaline cleaners.

1. Cat spray is a mixture of urine and other bodily fluids that cats use to mark their territory, or so I’m lead to believe. If this is the case then use an alkaline such as Bi Carb of Soda in a paste form to clean the brass.

2. A good friend suggested using vinegar either white or malt and this should do the job. I’m not sure about this as it goes against the principle of using alkaline to clean up an acidic problem. But I would give it a go as its cheaper than a new brass screen.

If either of theses methods work please let me know for future reference. Finally is the cat still with you?

Chris

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Q
Hi there Chris

My dehumidifier has croaked.  Had it on for 24 hours and got about 1 cup of water.  Cleaned the element and checked all connections etc.etc. Two and a half years old Model Basix from Mitre 10 Mega. Other than toss, any suggestions?

Thanks
Annette

A
Hi Annette

You seem to have done everything that you can do from home. After two and a half years I would still expect it to be working, I have a 12year old unit that pulls out moisture every day.

There are a couple of things I would do:

1. Go back to Mitre 10 and ask them if there is anything else you should be doing with this model as far as basic maintenance goes that will make it work again.

2. If the machine has failed and its not because of anything you have done and you have used it within the purpose for which it was sold then you might have a claim under the Consumers Guarantees  Act.

The Act talks about what would be considered acceptable or unacceptable quality of goods purchased and what would a reasonable consumer expect of the goods regardless of the manufacturer’s warranty. For example: ‘The motor in a new washing machine burns out after two years normal use. A reasonable consumer would consider this was not acceptable durability for a new appliance.’   Therefore it would be expected under the act that the machine is repaired. I would suggest this would also apply to your Dehumidifier

As a consumer, you have a lot of protection under the Act and I would encourage you and other readers to look at this.

I’m not suggesting for one moment that the following would apply to Mitre 10 as I have always found them to be a reasonable and fair company to deal with but do be aware that some retailers will use  ‘bullying tactics’ with customers who have the audacity to complain and demand their rights.  When complaining be assertive but fair and if you can’t get satisfaction from customers services ask to speak to a manager. If all else fails to contact the Consumer Affairs Department for further advice.

It would be interesting to hear from other ‘GrownUps’ of their experiences with Guarantees and dealing with retailers.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

We are an elderly couple, recently had renovations to the old house we bought. The bathroom is newly tiled, the tiles are slippery. Despite a rubber mat, my husband had a fall.

Query:  How can we take the slip out of slippery without ruining the tiles?

Cheers Peg

A
Hi Peg

The best answer for you is to visit your local tile retailer (Tile Depot or similar) and ask them about a non-slip coating. There are basically two types, one is an etching solution and permanent the other is a coating that you mop on and renew at intervals.

Hope this helps,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

In our shower, we have seals that have discoloured over the past 8 years. A shower is a corner unit and cubicle itself is fine except for the seals that hold the glass in. Is there anything we can do apart from having the glass replaced which is still in good condition?

Many thanks
Denise

A
Hi Denise

This is one of those problems I don’t have a cure for, the answer lies in the fact that yellowing occurs as plastics age they slowly degrade. The same happens with silicones and other similar man-made products. It really can be distressing at times when after spending a fortune on bathroom renovations some whites stay white and others turn to various shades of yellow.

Check out with the shower manufacturer if you can get new seals or ask at your local kitchen and bathroom store they might be able to help.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

I am planning to sand back and polish some wooden floors in a house we are going to buy. What is the best polyurethane that you would recommend – water based or oil based?

Another question is, the shower downstairs has a rough concrete shower floor ( that has been painted at some stage but now the paint has been peeling off and looks really cruddy!

What would you recommend to tidy up this shower floor?

Thank you
Daniel

A
Hi Daniel

With regard to your query about floor coating polyurethane, I have used both products and the have each have their advantages. Water based is certainly easier, cleaner and faster drying than the ‘oil’ based. However, I’m certain that the oil based finish looks better and has more depth. A very unscientific reason but there you are!

With your shower base maybe look at tiling? This would certainly tidy it up.

Cheers,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I am in the process of removing carpet tiles from vinyl flooring and would like to know how to remove adhesive residue without damaging the vinyl?

Thank you,
Annie.

A
Hi Annie

This is a real sticky one. The sticky residue left behind after removing the tiles is a real problem. Probably the best way would be to soak the stuff with a product such as Citrus Oil, Eucalyptus Oil, Goo Gone; Desolvit or even WD 40 spray. All of these products will remove sticky stuff, like tar, chewing gum etc. However, it’s still hard work.

Use a plastic scraper and a plastic scouring pad to ‘ball’ up the waste product and pull it off the floor in the rubbish bag.

This will not be a job for the faint-hearted and please don’t use any solvents as they might dissolve the vinyl!

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

Query for you.

We are refurbishing our bathroom in a 50-year-old red brick house and I have heard that using ‘used egg tray are an excellent source of sound proofing’.  Would you concur with this?

We would like to sound proof it a wee bit! Just to stop the ‘singing in the shower’ travelling through the house!  (grin)

Thanks,
Sylvia

A
Hi Sylvia

Many years ago I used egg cartons to sound proof a radio broadcast studio and they worked fine. Using them in the bathroom though is another matter due to the moisture content, it would take a lot of work to waterproof them and I’m not sure how this could be achieved.

My advice is take singing lessons so that the noise coming from the shower is a pleasure rather than a pain!

Have a great New Year.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

Your advice is borne of many hair-raising, kid filled adventures, and stroppy pets!! I can tell, like meets like. You are a bundle of good advice, so again I pick your brains, please.

Bought a 1940 stucco house, it has done up beautifully (costly, yes, but so worthwhile).

One of the big windows has a crack across the lower corner, a foot long, extending out about nine inches (I`m old you see, none of this metric business for me).  It is a ‘sound’ crack, hanging in tightly. Now, my old brain is thinking along the lines of repairing windscreens?

Are you going to tell me its not possible, aren’t you? Or is there a magic wand for this type of repair?

Holdin’ my breath,
Cheers
Peg

A
Hi Peg

Good to hear from you again!

Yes, you are correct in saying that it’s not possible to repair the crack in your window even using those magic kits used for car windscreens.

There are many and multitudinous (big word eh?) reasons one of them being the type of glass used for each application. Any way, you could try temporary repairs like using strong clear adhesive tape on both sides of the glass, or try a bead of waterproofing silicone (Selleys All Clear or similar).

Whatever you try just to make sure that you take all the necessary safety precautions when working with glass in case the whole window breaks. The best way forward is to grit your teeth and replace the window.

Have a great new year.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I have a tap inside the garage (rear) and want to bring closer to the front. Note that it has grey plastic tubing that has been crimped where joined and right angle joiners.

Read somewhere that this work is to be carried out by plumbers? Can’t see why I can’t do it by getting supplies from Bunnings or Mitre 10.

Appreciate your comments as to a) am I allowed to do it and if so, b) is there a site I can access to get the way to go about it?

Cheers and Happy New Year
Alan

A
Hi Alan

Unfortunately, I have to give you a standard answer here and that is:

Plumbing and drainage work

With the exception of minor work, for example, changing washers and taps, all plumbing and drainage work must be carried out by a registered plumber. This is for health reasons – an incorrect plumbing connection could allow a backflow of polluted water into your drinking water.

Plumbers are licensed by New Zealand Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board.
PO Box 10-655, Wellington, tel: 04 494 2970, fax: 04 494 2975.

Either the plumber or the company the plumber works for, must hold a licence. Make sure you see it. If they don’t have the appropriate licence their work must be supervised by a registered person.

My other advice is to go and have a chat with the plumbing department supervisor in Bunnings or Mitre 10 etc

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

I do enjoy your articles and tips.

Have one query: I have retrieved a silver tea set out of storage which is completely black and I mean black – it has been in storage for at least 40 years (not wrapped, just dumped in a box).  Your advice how to clean would be most welcome.

Thank you.

Kind regards
Robyn

A
Hi Robyn

The oblivious method is to pop down to the store and purchase Silvo or one of the other proprietary brands of silver cleaner. However, a much ‘greener’ and fun way of achieving a nice clean teapot is to try this method;

1.The first thing to do is to wash your silverware or silver jewellery with good old washing up liquid and water.

2.Use aluminium foil to line a saucepan large enough to take the teapot and add enough water to completely it. It’s important that the teapot is completely under the water.

3.Ok, fill the saucepan (with the aluminium foil lining) with water slowly mix baking soda so that is dissolved into the water and then put onto your cooker hob and bring to the boil. Use about half a cup of baking soda per litre of water.

4.As soon as the water starts to boil, you can remove the saucepan from the heat and put your teapot in the hot water. Make sure the silver is in direct contact with the aluminium foil. In a few minutes, you should see some small black or yellow flakes in the water, or notice that the aluminium foil is turning black. This is the chemical reaction between the baking soda, silver and the foil. It transfers the ‘tarnish’ from your teapot to the foil.

Be careful when doing this operation that you don’t scratch your teapot as you are working with metal against metal! When finished rinse well in clean water , kwiladry and polish. If the tarnish is still noticeable in some areas you can repeat using a stronger solution of baking soda.

If you have school-age family members this is a great science exercise for them! Ask them what chemical reactions are taking place and between which chemicals.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

I am hoping you can help me. I clean houses and have used a steam mop for over four years without one issue. I cleaned a house for a new client today who has hard wood floors with a polyurethane finish.

The floors have gone white in three areas in front of doors which get the sun all day. I believe that the sun has broken down the polyurethane layer in these areas which has allowed the water to penertrate into the wood. Some of the marks are a lot whiter than others and the areas are large, all of the areas that were cleaned using the steam mop that are not in front of the windows are fine.

What do you recommend doing to fix this problem.

Do you think it has been caused by a break down in the polyurethane layer.Up to now the owner has been cleaning the floor with meths and water, do you think this over time could also have bought on water stands in the areas that have been hit by the sun.

I look forward to hearing your advice.

Thanks
Angela

A
Hi Angela

You have answered your own questions !  Yes I would almost guarantee the white marks are where the steam has got under the polyurethane . The probable cause is the use of steam which is simply is being applied with more pressure than when the floor was cleaned with just water and meths.   Also your theory about the breakdown of the finish is also more than likely correct in that polyurethane will breakdown after time with the high UV we have in New Zealand sunlight , the degradation will vary with the quality of the polyurethane. Just have a look at some front doors where the householder has used a cheap interior grade polyurethane ! This is the usual advice I give for water marks on furniture I cant see why it wont work on floors:

A white water mark may be removed by using a mild abrasive such as toothpaste, brass cleaner (Brasso) or very fine steel wool (0000 grade).

With the exception of the steel wool, which you use by itself, use a soft cloth and the abrasive of your choice and buff vigorously in the direction of the grain. This is very important as the heat generated will help to evaporate the moisture in the water mark.

I have known some people use a hair drier on low heat and move it carefully over the watermark and this has worked for them, I’ve never tried it myself.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I really like your column and the wide-ranging ideas you offer. I’d like to share a way to remove permanent marker pen from a whiteboard or other surface. Just smear a little butter over the ink and wipe off with paper towel. This is very handy when you’ve used the wrong marker pen at work. There is usually enough left on a small used butter wrap often served with muffins. Butter also works to remove bitumen or tar off a car, jandals and all those summer mishaps.

It work very well because it is 100% aromatic and this solubility gives the cleaning action.

I was a technical advisor in the oil industry and the ink query was often asked so I hope this is of interest.

Regards,
Kelsey

A
Hi Kelsey

Thanks for you input I tried your idea and really did work! So when the grandchildren visit, forget the diet and keep some butter in the fridge.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I have sanded down (beautifully!) an old oak table that I wish to sit outside. I have been told to get it ‘epoxy-resinned’ as this will protect it for 10 years of more. It will be under a UV protected polyurethane (corrogated iron look alike) roof, but open to the elements. No sunshine however. I would love a glass look deep finish on it. Any chance? Look forward to your reply Chris, thank you.

Kind regards
Bev

A
Hi Bev

Go for it!  If you want a long lasting deep gloss effect then 2 pot epoxy is the product to use.

My own preference is to use Danish Oil to bring out the natural beauty of the wood but this method does need at lot of TLC and reoiling at regular intervals.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

We have recently bought a 1940 art deco house.  When it had been partially gutted, we found the outer wall had cracks in many places.  In Palmerston North we think this could have been earthquake damage over the years.  The builder has applied some type if `glue`??? not sure what it was.  before re- gibbing.  How do we treat the outside where the walls have not been gutted?  Not planning to paint immediately, but can do so. What is the best way to go about sealing these `outside` cracks? Please.

Thanking you in anticipation
Peg Matthews

A
Hi Mum

Thanks for your question however its one of those I’m reluctant to answer at a distance. Surface cracks can be filled with a variety of products ranging from epoxy resins to latex fillers with great success but without being on site and looking at problem it’s difficult to say what to use. Cracks could even mean serious problems with the structure of the building. My suggestion would be to get a builder’s advice.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

We just bought a house built in 1968 which has Rimu floors throughout except for Matai in the main lounge. I have two quotes to have the floors completely refinished but am confused about the use of epoxy to fill the gaps between the floor boards.

There are a lot of gaps, but not many that are overly wide in my opinion. One the flooring specialist wants to spread epoxy over the entire 92 square metre area. He says that since there are a lot of gaps it makes sense to do the whole lot. He also warned that the colour of the epoxy would not be exactly the same as the natural colour of the timber. The other flooring specialist is shocked at the idea of epoxying the whole area; he says this would not allow for enough natural movement in the wood, and he recommends just spot epoxy as needed for the largest gaps. And he uses black epoxy because, as that is the “colour” of a gap, he thinks it looks the most natural. In addition, the difference in total labour cost between the two contractors is the difference in how much epoxy is laid in. I am totally confused! What do you recommend? (I have attached some photos to show the variation in the size of the gaps).

Thanks,
Susan

A
Hi Susan

Now you are asking me to apply the wisdom of Solomon between  two experts’ in the field of floor finishing! I can only respond as a handyman who has been around some time and with, hopefully, a little commonsense.

Anyway enough of that and congratulations for choosing to expose your wooden floor boards.  To my way of thinking just using the epoxy to fill the large gaps would be the way to go, this will allow you to see the expose timber in its natural colours and using black will be in keeping with the other gaps.  I would only consider covering the whole floor if I needed a really hardwearing surface in a commercial or marine application. Plus epoxy can be rigid and crack up, depending on the quality and brand of course.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

I thought of lifting parts of my house. reading this article I got very disappointed. Do you agree to that or do you have different experiences?

Cheers
Michael

A
Hi Michael

All I can say is I admire you courage even thinking about jacking up your house! There are some things best left to others and this is one of them.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

I liked your column about floor sanding. But to get to there I have to pull out all the stables the carpet above has been fixed with. Some are pulling out alright, but many just braking of. any tricks that this will not happen?

Cheers
Michael

A
Hi Michael

I know what you mean broken nails and staples have cause many a sanding belt to rip . The only method I have used is to punch the broken bits deeply into the wood using a nail punch and hammer. Its a painful job but well worth it and do it as soon as you break the staple or nail or you will never find it afterwards until you try sanding!

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

We have a mid 70s house with quite a bit of outdoor concrete around it in the way of patios and outdoor barbeque areas.  These have been added onto over the years and every new lot that has been poured is a different colour.  We have looked at having pavers put over the concrete but the cost of this is far too expensive due to the area of involved.  Is there a product and a  method of applying a new surface to this existing concrete to give it a lift and make it all look the same without the cost.  Do do have a concrete mixer and my husband is not too bad at DIY!

Thank you.
Judith

A
Hi Judith

Good question!  Resurfacing concrete has traditionally been a very difficult job because concrete is very difficult to get other concrete to stick to it. ( Hope that makes sense!) . Anyway the advances in technology and chemicals now apparently make this possible although I haven’t used the products myself.

I have been talking to a company Peterfell Ltd in Auckland who supply products for the type of job you want to do your self or they will recommend tradesmen to do it for you. Their website is excellent and covers a whole range of options and their sales / technical team very obliging , so give them a go and let me know how you get on.

http://www.peterfell.co.nz

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hello Chris

On your site you mention cleaning spoutings and using a ladder standoff. I have enquired at Mitre 10, Placemakers etc and they are unable to find for me a standoff.

Are you able to advise the manufacturer / supplier of a quality standoff?

Thanks,
Tom

A
Hi Tom

Mitre 10 used to sell them but I guess not enough people bought them,  anyway have a look at Bindons website they are on Auckland’s North Shore and I’m sure they will be able to help you.

http://www.bindon.co.nz/shop/Ladder+Accessories.html

Cheers
Chris
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Q
Hi Chris,

We have a large exterior deck 4 years old, 500meters from the sea, over Nuraply 3P. The original grouting did not work well. Maybe they used the wrong grout. A tiler has recommended removing all grout and replacing it with silicone which is said to better cope with movement and reduce risk of water causing damage.

Your view on this? How long will the silicone last compared with conventional grout?

Thanks,
Mike

A
Hi Mike

Interesting question, I’ve never used silicone myself for grouting tiles. My first thought was why not but then I got to thinking about silicones and a few issues came to mind. Would the silicone dry hard enough for people walking on the deck? Over such a large area it would be expensive? What about keeping clean or mould attack?  So I then did a bit of research on what the commercial installers use and came up with an Epoxy product that seems to be ideal. Its called Kerapoxy from the Mapei company. I would give them a call and have a chat to their technical people.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

We have a 1930s house with some exposed matai floor boards. They are looking pretty worn so we would like to get them sanded and polyurethaned. The boards have shrunk and there are gaps between the boards, some gaps are up to 5mm wide. Have had lots of different advice, this has included – Don’t fill the gaps, just leave as is. Fill the gaps with dust and polyurethane. Fill with a flexible filler.

So my questions are:

1. I consider myself pretty handy around the house, should I do the job myself or should I get a pro in?

2. I hear from some that filling the gaps with dust and polyurethane mixture doesn’t last that long as it will crack and fall out, correct?

3. Do you know of a suitable flexible filler and would you recommend it?

4. Any other advice?

Thanks in advance
Troy

A
Hi Troy

The Gaps:

Ok this is not an easy one as you have already discovered.  There are many ways of approaching this task and really non of them are a 100% as you are dealing with a product ( wood) that will continue to do its own thing, shrink and expand.  The idea you already have of mixing sawdust and glue is not good as it will be prone to  falling out eventually.  Another method I have heard about is getting an old floorboard and cutting fillets to fit in the gaps, never been willing to try this one but someone I know has and it didn’t produce a very good job as the gaps varied so much in width. The best method is to rip up the boards and refit them , you might need another board to fit in the gap that will be left when you close up the shrunken boards.

Flexible fillers are an option and I have successfully used Selleys No More Gaps Weatherboards to fill the gaps between the boards in the wall of a Lockwood house bathroom prior to painting. It worked very well. Major problem for you is that this product comes in white, It is paintable but to paint only the product in the gaps of your floorboards would be a nightmare!  Anyway, there is one possible solution Polyfilla WoodFlex Filler, this product comes in a variety of colours and will tolerate 5 to 10% movement of your floorboards.  I think I would give this a go and try it in one area for a few months and see what happens.

Sanding the Floor:

With regard to sanding the floors yourself,  yes you can if you approach the job with care. I  will use this as the theme for my next article on the website  to give you an idea or so,

I got this information for you from Polyfilla:

TECHNICAL FEATURES

• Extremely flexible, will not fall out when timber expands and contracts.

• POLYFILLA* WOODFLEX has excellent adhesion to painted and unpainted timber, including cracks and holes arising from rot (remove rotted timber first).

• Sands to a smooth finish.

• No priming required before repainting.

• Minimal shrinkage on drying.

• Can be tinted with paint tinters or stained.

• Keeps well in airtight plastic container.

Cheers,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I have some very light beige floor tiles in my hallway that have been down since the house was built 4 years ago. At the time they were laid the grouting was naturally very pale however, this has now turned rather dark, not helped initially by the builders walking their muddy size 11’s on uncovered tiles when they were put down which subsequently ‘stained’ the grouting in places. No matter what I have tried since, I cannot lighten the grouting and now the floor looks unsightly to me. Have you any suggestions as to what I can use to try and improve the look?

Thanks,
Dolly

A
Hi Dolly,

Sorry to say if you have tried every method of cleaning the grout and not been able to remove the stains then there is very little that you can do other than scratch out the old grout and replace it with new . Then again have you tried getting a ‘proper’ grout cleaner from a specialist tile shop? I have known people say they cant get their grout clean using regular household products but did so when using a specialist one!  Give it a go.

Cheers,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I have a problem in the bathroom of my 1950’s bungalow house. Water has been slowly leaking down the back of the shower over a period of years and has made its way along the bottom of the wall between the solid timber flooring and the bottom floor plate on the wall behind the shower. None of this was apparent until a few months ago when we noticed the floorboards rotting along the edge of the wall. I first inspected the floor from underneath to see how bad the problem was from there. Fortunately it has not rotted right through, in fact I couldn’t see any evidence of rot from below at all.

It was obviously my faulty shower installation that was the cause of the problem so I’ve got a professional shower installer to pull it out and re-install it. The shower has now been removed but I still have the problem of removing the rot and replacing it with solid timber wherever possible. The floor boards are solid Matai timber about 20mm thick and I am reluctant to replace the floorboards unless I really have to. I have removed as much rot as possible chiselling it out down to more solid timber, in some cases having chiselled down to about half its depth. (I’ve got a fan heater and dehumidifier going in there to dry it all out).

I am thinking about filling the void with an epoxy resin or filler. What do you think about this strategy? Can you recommend a suitable product?

I removed as much of the rotting floor plate as possible, however it seems the problem has spread beyond the bathroom and under another adjoining wall (about a metre away from the shower and the source of the original problem). Again I’m reluctant to start hacking into that wall unless I really have to. My question here is: if the remaining piece of sodden floor plate is left in place, will the rot keep spreading further? Or do you think it would be OK to just let it dry out and leave it where it is?

Any comments or suggestions you could make would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

A
Hi Dave

You really do have a problem and I can sympathize as it was only a couple of years ago I had a similar problem!  To cut a very long story short there is only one way to deal with rot in floorboards and thats to cut it out and replace the boards. Sorry mate but its the safest and easiest way to deal with the problem as the chances are the rot will keep spreading even after you think its all dried out.

I also had surface rot in the walls which I fixed by cutting and chiseling out the rot and used builders bog to fill to within 15mm of the surface I then matched some plywood with the grain of the ‘good ‘ part of the timber wall and glued this in place and that looked pretty good but difficult and time consuming. Follow this link and have a read about Metalux fiiler and wood hardener which answers the other part of your question.

http://everbuildaustralasia.com/imagespdftechnicalmet%20two%20part%20wood%20filler.pdf

Cheers,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

Really enjoy reading your column.  I want to paint our wood panelled front door.  Its been varnished…… presumably polyurethaned originally but is now rather scruffy.  Can you tell me how to clean it up and prepare it well for good paint job…. we want to brighten it up with colour!

Many thanks,
Brigit

A
Hello again Brigit!

There are only thre rules to a good paint job, 1. Preparation   2 Preparation  3  Preparation.  So you need to get rid of the polyurethane surface using either a chemical paint stripper  or scraper and heat gun.The easiest and messiest is the chemical stripper but by following the instructions on the can and being careful it will be successful . Use a heat gun once again as per the manufacturers instructions. Once the old polyurethane is off fill any dings and dents with wood filler then sand  down the surface until its nice and smooth to the touch. Paint the surface with a good quality primer undercoat, sand down again with very fine sandpaper and apply your top coat, usually, two coats will be required. There is a debate (that has gone on for some time) about using the traditional oil based paint on doors and windows or using water based acrylic.

The benefit of water-based paints is easy to cleanup and fast drying time and today’s products do give a very hard wearing surface. Check out the range and types available at your local paint store.

Cheers,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

Hopefully, you can give us some advice on repairing potholes appearing in our drive.  It is short but quite a slope with tarmac surface.  With all the recent rains any worn areas are being eroded quite fast.  We have repaired a few areas before with fine gravel and tar from local roading firm but I’m not sure correctly so I would like any tips on best procedure. Thanks and hoping to hear back soon.

Brigit.

A
Hi Brigit

You are basically doing the right thing. The secret of a good long lasting repair is making sure that the cold seal asphalt is well tamped down. You can do this using a tamping machine available from your local hire shop or use a piece of 100×100 timber. Slightly over fill the hole, cover with a piece of old plywood or similar and carefully drive over it, just like you see the road roller when the professionals are doing road works!

You should be able to buy cold pack asphalt from you local DIY store if not check out this website:   http://www.asphaltinabag.co.nz/begin.html

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

We live in the country in a two-storied house and have a big problem with starlings who like to land on our roof and nest. The mess they make on our colour steel roof is very visible and unsightly. Do you have some practical suggestions for our problem?

Regards
Julie

A
Hi Julie

This is a question and problem that has confused and confronted many people and sad to say there is no one answer.  All the methods revolve around scaring the birds away humanely. People have tried everything from noise generators, to strobe lights, to scarecrows on the roof, to stringing up used CDs. There was a product on the market some years ago called Hot Foot, a paste that was spread on a surface and when the birds landed they felt a chemical burning sensation. I haven’t seen it for years though.  If the problem is really bad, give the local council a call and see what they use on their buildings.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

I have a slug problem. They come into the lounge at night when the house it quiet, and slither around leaving silver trails and disappear before morning.  I’ve only ever caught one once, so I know its slugs. They only turn on the trail mechanism when they are in the middle of the floor, so you can’t see where they came in. What can I do?

Thanks,
Janice

A
Hi Jan

I assume you have a wooden floor as you have identified the trails. Therefore one evening before going to bed sprinkle a fine layer of talcum powder on the floor where you suspect they are entering. In the morning the suspects will have left a trail of footprints for you to follow back to their lair! Go get ’em Jan.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris.

I have been asked to cut out a few jigsaws to assist with stroke rehabilitation. I have a couple (about A4 size, 6mm MDF ) that are marked out. The nurse has given me some pictures to be stuck on the pieces.

I have cut one using my band saw and a coping saw. (Tried a scroll saw but broke too many blades, jigsaw leaves a rough cut). I’m not sure if I should try gluing the picture onto the board, then cut out the pieces, or cut the pieces, assemble the jigsaw, glue the picture on, then cut thru’ the picture, using a craft knife, following the edges of the wood.

Would putting a coat of clear sealer over each piece help to protect the edges from peeling?  Ever done anything like this?

Thank you,
Arthur

A
Hi Arthur

Its been about 50 years since I last cut out jigsaws on my fathers foot operated jig saw!  I seem to remember we stuck the picture onto the plywood (no MDF in those days) then with the picture facing down used a fine scroll saw blade to cut out the pieces.  If I remember correctly it worked fine, you will have to use a scroll saw with a thin blade. Do not push the wood through the saw too fast or you will break your blade as you have found out!  Cut out the pieces slowly and carefully. Do not make the pieces with tiny ends or obtrusions on them as these are likely to break off easily. With a wooden-backed puzzle, you will need to sand the pieces in order to remove the rough edges

Also, make sure that you use thick paper pictures to glue on the board.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi, Chris.

Do I need to know if the toothpaste idea that is used for the white watermarks on furniture would work for white heat marks on a wooden table?

Thanks
Lynne

A
Hi Lynne

Should work, give it a go!  Remember to rub vigorously and with the grain.

Thanks,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I would like to remove a window. Could you explain the procedure for aluminium windows? It’s the rubber setup that’s the catch, if I pull it out what happens when I want to replace it (for cat door project).

Thanks, mate,
Paul

A
Hi Paul

You’ve got me on this one! I have never replaced glass in an Aluminium frame, steel, wooden OK but not Aluminium.

I’ve had a chat to the local glazier, who hasn’t put me crook before, and he tells me don’t do it – resealing without the right tools is just one problem.

Anyway, I’m always willing to learn so let’s throw the topic open to the Grown Ups DIY ‘club’! Did anyone get an answer?

Thanks,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

Moved into a new home about a year ago. A number of door hinges have suddenly started creaking. Have eased and tightened them to try to stop this without success. Have knocked out the pins and dripped sewing machine oil down them (this provided very short term relief). Any thoughts would be most appreciated.

Regards
Richard

A
Hi Richard

Seems like you are suffering from your new house ‘settling’ down. When this happens doors and door frames sometimes go out of alignment which does cause the creaking you describe. Or it could even be the door jambs themselves becoming a wee bit loose.

Rather than get into writing chapters on this problem I suggest you look at this website which has some really good information on realignment or finishing off door hanging in new homes: click here.

Regards
Chris

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Q
Dear Chris,

I own a little house and garage which have metal cladding, like skyline products I guess. Some of the cladding under the verandah has what looks like corrosion. I have had many varied quotes from painters to fix it, but would like to know what the process is to fix this problem. I am told this has occurred because the rain has not touched this area. Most of the rest of the house is still in reasonable condition. The house is 21 years old.

Regards,
Lorraine

A
Hi Lorraine

A little more information please. Is this a Lockwood home with Aluminum sheeting covering the weatherboards? If not please describe a little more clearly or do you know what metal?

Thanks,
Chris

Q II
Dear Chris,

The house has a label Profile Home. It is not a Lockwood home. It has cladding like Skyline Garages – Metal weatherboard-style cladding. I don’t know what metal, but come to think of it, a bit of the garage became rusty when I dug away a compost heap which was up against the wall. So steel, with a baked on paint? The ‘boards’ are actually double width and overlap or slide onto the next ‘board’.

Kind regards,
Lorraine

A II
Hi Lorraine

I looked up the Profile Homes Website and can’t find anything special there so I guess you simply have a bit of a rust problem forming.

In this case, you will need to clean off all the corrosion/rust using a wire brush and sand back until you get clean metal. Apply a zinc-rich primer to sanded areas before painting the entire area with an undercoat suitable for metal and applying a top coat (possibly using roofing paint). Talk to the staff at your local hardware or paint store to get the right paints and most import if it s only a small area the right quantity.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

I have a very old weatherboard cottage (over 100 years old) and one of the double sash windows is in bad shape ( a bit like me!!). There are four panes of glass in the window – two top and two bottoms.  One of the ‘inside frames’ that keeps the glass in place, has completely rotted out and that pane has slipped down – leaving a gap at the top of about an inch.  The bottom of the top two windows has sort of come adrift as well, but the frame around the entire sash has been replaced.

I also have another smaller window – not sash, top hung, four panes of glass, measuring 600mm x 800mm. There is rot at the bottom of the window frame, gradually working its way up, worse on one side than the other and the sill is also rotting, again worse on one side than the other.

Can you tell me who I contact to have a look at them, please?  A joiner, a builder, a window repairman?  I am pretty clueless.

I know I should have had them seen to earlier than this and it has taken courage to admit that they need work and that I need help!!

Many thanks – Maggie

A
Hi Maggie

I would call in a builder who specialises in small jobs. Check though the Yellow Pages and when you contact the builder ask for a couple of references from people he has done work for in the past. If the builder is reluctant to give references then move on to the next one. Most importantly, get a firm quote from a couple of builders and DO NOT pay for the work until the job is completed, a deposit is OK.

Regards,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

I have brought a wee cottage recently and have noticed that one window in particular has rotten wood on the outside edge. It’s a push out type of window and the cottage is over 65 years old. I am not sure how to repair it. Any advice would be great.

Cheers,
Shirley

A
Hi Shirley

Funny you should ask this question as I have just completed the same job myself!  How to repair the rot in an old window frame will entirely depend on how much rotten wood you have. So the first task is to establish this fact. In my case I gently prodded around the frame with a sharpened screwdriver until I found solid timber. I then used a paint scraper to remove the old paint (in my case about 4 layers) until I could see the bare wood.

Working on two windows I found that one was not so bad so I dug out the rot using a hammer and chisel until it was all removed, I then coated the whole area of the hole with Metalex Timber Preservative. When this was dry I used Selleys Knead It (Epoxy putty) to fill the hole and when this was dry sanded it down, primed, undercoated and top coated with paint. Looks good as new!

he other frame was a different matter as the rot was in the bottom sill and affected almost a third of the length. To fix this I once again established where the rot ended and good wood began. Then, using an electric jigsaw, cut the whole rotten piece out. I then measured carefully the profile of the sill and the length I needed and took a trip down to my local Bunnings store. Because my house is over 40 years old the profile I wanted was not available, I purchased a length of wood that was ‘almost’ the same, took it home and with the use of a hand plane and electric sander made it into the right shape! Once again coating the whole area and the new piece of wood with Metalex Timber Preservative I then glued and nailed the new piece into the frame and used builders bog to fill up a few gaps that I had left (I didn’t cut very accurately when removing the old wood!). A wee bit of sanding, painting and its just like a bought job!

Regards,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I have a small coffee table with water damage to the surface, I was going to try Methylated Spirits and a soft cloth to try and repair some of the damage, is this worth a try or can you recommend another product?

Regards,
Murray

A
Hi Murray

Methylated Spirits can completely strip some wood finishes (for example shellac / French Polish) so be very careful using this product. Depending on the type of water damage you could try the following as advised by another member a short while ago: a white water mark may be removed by using a mild abrasive such as toothpaste, brass cleaner (Brasso) or very fine steel wool (0000 grade).

With the exception of the steel wool, which you use by itself, use a soft cloth and the abrasive of your choice and buff vigorously in the direction of the grain. This is very important as the heat generated will help to evaporate the moisture in the water mark.

I have known some people use a hair drier on low heat and move it carefully over the watermark and this has worked for them, I’ve never tried it myself.

If the stain is a deep one you may have to re polish or re stain the woods surface however in most cases a simple application of regular furniture polish will make the surface look like new.

Regards,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I have moved into a new house with a wood burner.  Last winter I had no problems with it at all. Lovely luxurious flames. This winter (well I have tried three times in the last week or so) I cannot keep the fire alive – even with the knob on wide open.  It starts OK, the slows down to a non-event.

The changes this year are:

Had the chimney swept – sweeper came back to have a double check, no obstruction, and initial up-draft is terrific.

New purchase of wood – it is dry, and a mixture of pine and macrocarpa I have been told.  (last year I had wood from pallets and macrocarpa)

So if the chimney is alright, and the wood is dry, what else can I try.  The whole thing reacts differently to last winter. I stack with loads of paper, layer with kindling, then plonk on a big piece.  It is when it is down to the large piece of wood, even on full tilt – the flames disappear.

Any ideas?

Regards,
Mary

A
Hi Mary

From what you tell me it can only be the wood. If the chimney is clear and you have a draught through the fire door vent then it should burn nicely. Have you tried a piece of dry pine or pallet wood the same as last year?

Thanks,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I have a large polished hardwood table and unfortunately I also have a big white heat mark on it where a hot iron went through the clothing and onto the polish.

My question is: how do I get rid of this mark and bring back the colour of the table?

Regards,
Stephen Pearce.

PS: You have come a long way from your Masport days!

A
Hi Stephen

Good to hear from you and hope that you and your family are well!

A white water mark may be removed by using a mild abrasive such as toothpaste, brass cleaner (Brasso) or very fine steel wool (0000 grade).

With the exception of the steel wool, which you use by itself, use a soft cloth and the abrasive of your choice and buff vigorously in the direction of the grain. This is very important as the heat generated will help to evaporate the moisture in the water mark.

I have known some people use a hair dryer on low heat and move it carefully over the watermark and this has worked for them, I’ve never tried it myself.

If the stain is a deep one you may have to re-polish or re stain the woods surface, however in most cases a simple application of regular furniture polish will make the surface look like new.

Thanks
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

We are having a new house built. The floor tiler wants to lay the floor tiles first and the kitchen maker wants to install the cabinetry first. Which will order produce the best result? If the cabinets go in first they will have a level surface to work on but the tiler will have to cut in around the toe spaces. If the tiles go down first then the kitchen maker will have to trim for any unevenness in the tiles. Can I have your comments, please?

Kind regards,
John McGregor

A
Hi John

This is a definite chicken and egg conundrum and to be fair both tradesmen are correct from their own perspective! However, from my personal point of view, it’s better to lay all your flooring, no matter what type it is, first. The reasoning behind this is my belt and braces mentality in that if you ever want to move or change your kitchen units the floor will not have to be patched up.

Thanks
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I just want to know, is it possible to renew ceramic discs in bathroom taps?

I am handy with a lot of DIY stuff and I wonder, if it is possible, how difficult it is.

Thanks for your help,
Sandiron

A
Hi Sandiron,

Ceramic disc taps operate in a different way from conventional taps that have washers and main spindles. They have a cartridge in the body of the tap containing a pair of ceramic discs, each one with two holes in it.

One disc is fixed in position; the other rotates when the handle is turned. As the movable disc rotates, the holes in it line up with the holes in the fixed one and water flows through them. When the tap is turned off the movable disc rotates so that the holes no longer align.

A scratched ceramic disc can cause a Dripping or leaking tap, the entire cartridge must be replaced; REMEMBER, left-handed for a hot tap or right-handed for a cold tap. Remove the damaged cartridge and take it with you when buying a replacement to make sure it is the correct size and left or right hand. Ceramic taps can also drip at the base of the cartridge if the seal has perished.

Checking the ceramic discs:

1. Turn off the water supply. Pull off the tap handles (it may be necessary to unscrew a small retaining screw on each) and use a spanner to unscrew the headgear section.

2. Carefully remove the ceramic cartridges, Remembering which is hot and which cold. Check both cartridges for dirt and damage.

3. If the cartridges are worn, replace with identical parts for the tap unit. Make sure the hot and cold cartridges are fitted into the correct taps.

4. If the cartridges are dirty, clean them with a damp cloth. Replace the rubber seal, if it is worn. Replace the cartridge in the tap unit, fitting the hot and cold cartridges into the appropriate taps.

Thanks to: How to fix Leaking Taps and Dripping Taps (by a London plumber)!

Thanks
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

I want to install a retractable awning over my terrace but am hesitant to go ahead with the purchase as I was told by a staff member that this particular awning is meant to be fixed to brickwork, presumably for greater stability.  As I have a weatherboard home, I am feeling unsure about going ahead with this.  The awning is approximately 2.7m long by 2.5m extension so is reasonably large and I would imagine a bit heavy.  It would have to be attached just under the soffit onto timber. I have fears of it all crashing down and tearing the back board with it.  Would appreciate your advice.

Thank you.
Jen

A
Hi Jen

You should be able to fit an awning to your home whether it’s weatherboard construction or not. The main thing is to ensure that the fixing points are into the solid timber and not just the weatherboard (ie. studs/joists / frame etc).

It appears that you haven’t purchased the unit yet so why not find a company that does installations as well as sell you the product (use the Yellow Pages in your area) or if buying for self-installation contact the manufacturer and ask them directly.

If all else fails and you are still unsure but want to do it yourself (good on you) consult a builder or engineer, for a small fee you buy peace of mind.

Cheers,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

We are wanting a un-biased opinion about double glazing or DVS. Our home suffers from condensation and we want to do somthing about it. Can you help please?

Thank you.
Debbie

A
Hi Debbie

I can only comment on my own experience and that was to install double glazing, result: no more condensation. It was certainly more expensive than the DVS system but it does have the added advantage of cutting down outside noise as well.

You could always ask your local DVS sales representative for a couple of people in your area who have had the system installed and then you could ask them how efficient they find it to be. If the rep is reluctant to give you references then he/she cant have much faith in the system.

Thanks,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

What is the most effective way of keeping birds from building their nests on your roof?

Did I hear something about putting pink batts just inside the entry hole?

Maybe you have some better ideas.

Thanks,
Betty

A
Hi Betty

Had the same problem myself! I simply used some small mesh chicken wire and cut it into pieces about twice as large as the entry hole. Making sure that my hands were protected by gardening gloves I scrunched the pieces up into balls and pushed the balls into the entry holes.

If you have an iron roof with many entry ‘holes’ down the length of the roof I would then tend to use the same chicken wire inside the roof. How you install it would depend on the construction and accessible that you have available in the roof space. It might be possible, inside the roof space, to just run a narrow piece down the length of the roof and staple it in place.

If your birds are anything like the ones in my garden please don’t use pink batts as they would take it for nesting materials!

If any Grown Ups member has any better ideas I would be delighted to hear about them as this problem affects many folks.

Cheers,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris

Can you tell me what product(s) I should use to remove a build up of furniture polish on a wood veneer table in order to get it back to its ‘former glory’?

Thank you

Yvonne

A
Hi Yvonne

What ever method you use please test on an inconspicuous part of the furniture to make sure that you don’t cause any damage to the finish.

The first method is the one that’s been around for years. Rub with a soft cloth that has been wrung out in a solution made up of 1 part of vinegar with 8 parts of warm water. Wipe off immediately with another soft cloth. Repeat until all the polish has been removed.

Another method is to use one of the Spray and Wipe products, although I have never tried it myself a friend has a said it was very successful.

Lastly, furniture restorers sell a variety of polish removers which are used for restoring antique furniture.

Chris

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Q
Hi Chris.

How do you unscrew a Phillips screw that has lost all its edges and the screwdriver keeps slipping round and round? My light in the extractor above the stove has gone and I can’t access it to change the bulb due to the pesky screw. I am also finding it hard to get enough pressure into the screw.

Thanks, Patsy.

A
Hi Patsy,

The answer is that you can do one of three things.

1, Drill the head of the screw off which will allow you to remove the cover. Use a drill bit about the same size as the head of the screw. After removing the cover it should be possible to grip the remaining piece of the screw by gripping it firmly with a pair of pliers and unscrewing it. This process can be a bit ‘dodgy’ if either the remaining stub is too tight or too short.

2. Use a screw extractor available from most Hardware stores. I recently saw this little gizmo in Mitre 10, called Grabit. Never used it myself but it looks useful.

3. Clean the head so that no grease or oil remains (be careful if using solvents near your cooker) use a small piece of epoxy putty such as Knead It. Press carefully into the screw head only. Do not allow it to spread over the cover as it will harden and really hold the cover in place! Whilst the putty is still soft carefully make an impression into it with your screwdriver. Remove the screwdriver and let the putty harden as per the pack instructions for the brand you use. When hard, unscrew as normal then replace the screw.

Number 3 is a very finicky process and you will need a very clean base, so my recommendation would be try number two first.

Regards,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I have a small Kitchen with old lino, and I want to get rid of it. Underneath is concrete. Can you lay tiles straight onto the concrete?  Also is it easier and cheaper to get the concrete polished? Would that look Okay? What sort of flooring would you suggest?

I like the wooden floor boards (click together) but it’s out of the question, price wise, as someone has to come in and take out the kick boards and cut a few ml off.

Thanks, Sharon.

A
Hi Sharon,

The simple answer is yes you can lay tiles onto the concrete, providing its level and in good condition. I’m not a fan of polishing concrete in the home as it is a very dusty, messy operation. However, getting a quote from an expert might be enlightening!

I will be doing a feature on tiling very shortly which might be useful.

Regards,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris.

I have a house half roughcast half clinker brick. About three years ago I painted the roughcast and paint splashed onto the bricks. Could you tell me how to remove the paint on the bricks?

Thanks, Bill.

A
Hi Bill

Providing the bricks are not painted simply dab the splashes with a good paint remover (something like poly stripper). Following the instructions on the can and away you go!

Regards,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I have a leak which I have found to be coming from a rotten barge board behind the spouting. The spouting is galvanised iron. I need to remove a section of the spouting to replace the barge board, then redo the spouting in that section. How do I this without replacing the whole all the spouting which is still serviceable?

Thanks, Rex.

A
Hi Rex,

I’ve only ever done replaced a section of rusty guttering once and that was a few years ago and this is the way I went about it:

• I found a matching section of gutter about 200 mm over the length of the removed section put it place lapping over the old guttering on each end.

• With it in position drilled suitable holes for pop rivets through both thicknesses, at either end. Removed the new piece, cleaned all round each end with emery cloth, also inside the cuts of the existing pipe. Filed off rough edges.

• Applied Silicone Sealer to both the new and existing sections where they overlapped. Inserted the new section, pop riveted and smoothed off the silicone sealer.

• With guttering it is important to make the joint with the fall, i.e. place the new piece under the old where the fall is towards the repair, reverse the procedure where the fall is away from it.

If necessary fit a couple of new supporting brackets.
Hope this helps!

Regards,
Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I wonder if you have an answer to our problem. We pulled up the lino in our kitchen to find beautiful rimu floorboards underneath. We sanded and varnished them but there are numerous black marks all over it from where the nails were, and it looks pretty awful. Is there any way to get rid of these stains?

cheers
Anita

A
Hi Anita, thanks for the question

Usually, he black marks are caused by the nails rusting in the wood and as the room you are renovating is the kitchen, water may have seeped under the old lino at some time in the past.  In many cases, these stains are simply surface ones and can be removed by punching the nails a few millimetres into the wood before heavy sanding and then filling the holes to match the wood. However, as you have already sanded and finished you may have already tried this solution.
In fact, the job of removing the stains is more difficult if not impossible now that you have applied the varnish because the stains will be sealed under this finish. Other than removing the varnish and starting all over again I’m sorry I cannot suggest a remedy.

Regards,
Chris

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Q
Hello Mr Bennett,

We have a second home in the mountains that is totally electric. Soon we’ll need to replace our hot water heater. We were told it was 20 years old when we bought the place 2 years ago.

I have heard good and bad things about the tankless water heater and the hybrid hot water heater which I understand does have a small tank. I like the idea that the hybrid has stainless steel pipes. We have a well and the water comes up ice cold. We are not there every weekend but when we are there, it’s a big crowd. In addition to showering, several appliances may need hot water at the same time. Also, the pump and hot water heater are shut off when we leave and the pipes are drained in the winter (if this matters). I’m told our water is very soft here. Would that affect the operation of the heater?

Would you kindly tell me if a tankless hot water heater is for me? I do understand that they are quite expensive to purchase and install but I wouldn’t mind the investment if it would pay off in the end.

Thank you,
Selina

A
Hi Selina

You have given me something to think out here as I have never considered the Tankless hot water system myself. My son Marc swears by his gas operated system but then again he has three daughters and a wife who all enjoy long showers!
I have done some research and would recommend that you visit the following websites http://www.chilipepperapp.com/tankless.htm
http://www.tanklesswaterheaterguide.com/

They have some valuable information that might help you towards a decision

Regards
Chris

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Q
Chris,

We are about to have an extension put on our house, unfortunately over the winter period due to builder availability. Access is restricted and over a grassy area that is prone to getting muddy. Any ideas for ways we can stop the grass turning into a field of mud which would be unpleasant and dangerous to the builders and messy and ugly for us.

Any help or pointers would be much appreciated.

Regards
David

Hi David

You have posed one of the most difficult questions to answer! Builders are notoriously messy people in general (may my good mate Reini forgive me!) however it is true. The real answer lies with the builder to protect your property whilst carrying out the alterations but then again no matter what he does damage will happen to the grassy area if this is in his access way. He will probably lay down some sort of metal or wood covering to walk over and prevent slipping but I would still plan on buying a few packets of grass seed in the spring!

So I really don’t have an answer for you, maybe one of our fellow grown-ups will!

Chris

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Q
Hi Chris,

I have an antique desk that I want to refinish but I would like to use eco-friendly methods. Do you know of any eco-friendly paint strippers available for sale in NZ? I’ve checked Mitre 10 Mega and Bunnings but all the products there are quite toxic. Any help would be greatly appreciated….

Thanks.

A
With regard to stripping the antique desk my first question would be, how valuable is this piece? If it’s very valuable please take it to a professional as it is so easy to damage furniture when resurfacing. If you still want to go ahead the only true eco-friendly method is to use heat or sand off the layers of the old finish, both of these methods can cause damage unless you are extremely careful. A couple of other ideas I have come across but never tried are:

Cooper Restoration system which is advertised as Non-Toxic you can find them at
http://www.coopers-restoration.co.nz/restoration_made_easy/strip/strip.htm

Then there is the Infra Red Stripper which is fairly new technology, look at www.i-strip.co.nz for more information.

Finally a supposedly ‘ Green ‘ mixture is to Mix two parts of cloudy ammonia with one part of turpentine brush this onto the surface and it will soften the varnish and allow you to scrape it off. Once again proceed with caution as I have never tried this myself but it did come highly recommended.

Chris

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Q
Dear Chris,

Is there anyone you could recommend who is good at what they do and would charge a reasonable price to install a range hood above my stove with an outlet for cooking steam, smoke and odours to the outside of the house (I already have an electric plug hole installed)

I also need someone install a dryer on my laundry wall with an outlet for hot air to be channelled to the outside

I would very much appreciate your assistance in finding a good, reliable tradesman who will not over charge.

Thank you.
June

A
Hi June

A very difficult question to answer as Handyman services vary so greatly in all areas. I suggest that you contact someone advertising in your local paper or the Yellow Pages and if their quote is OK then ask for references from people they have done work for previously. If they won’t give references then say goodbye! Another thought is to ask at your local hardware store, they may have someone available.

Chris