The difference between good wine and a great one is subtle. It is also inarguable.
Out at an Italian restaurant recently, Farina in Ponsonby I spotted a rare chance to try three Soave (pronounced Swah-vay) of different styles and prices, all from one lauded producer.
A delightful Italian classic, Soave is a light and crisp dry white, with a European subtlety to its fruit appeal. For us kiwis, think the excitement of a Marlborough sav with the manners of a pinot gris. Soave is a picnic wine, par excellence.
Pieropan is the Soave maker of excellence, they’ve been at it since the 1890s and were the first to lift Soave’s quality by committing to single vineyard wines. This demanded expensively attentive production and delivered uniquely characterful wine and earnt Soave a place with even the most refined wine company.
So three Soave all lined up, open and too good to miss out on. First the Soave Classico DOC 2016 ($29.90). I have a fondness for this wine, it’s a bright light and as easy to like as it is to drink.
Next is its pricier sibling, the single vineyard Soave Classico DOC ‘Calvarino’ 2015. It reminds me of my relationship with my elder sibling, the big brother is a comparison, as he’d say, bigger, bolder and yet indisputably more refined. Which at $39.50 is decent value: this is, after all, a best in class taste of a world famous wine.
And so to a class all its own, the Pieropan Soave Classico DOC ‘La Rocca’ 2014 ($50), is a taste of greatness. Is it demonstrably different from the others? Yes and no, not at all. Because it is just another Soave, with recognisable character and flavours, fresh and lively, pleasing fruit, some spicy lift and an elusive nuttiness. These are the characters of every Pieropan Soave at every price. But the greatness is not defined by flavour, it’s in texture and depth. I am reminded of a great friendship compared to a new one.
The great Soave sits differently in the mouth, occupying seemingly all the mouth and every taste bud, all at once. While still fragrantly filling the nose. All three wines are clearly related, but the greatness of one is undeniable.
My wine focus is finding wines I love and can afford. So I am always disappointed when I try an expensive wine and love it. But some things are worth saving up for.
When I tasted the La Rocca for the first time, I knew nothing about it, other than it was clearly related to a wine I already enjoy. When I finally tasted it, I looked at my mate who had got there first and just said, ‘Oh wow.” His reply? “I know mate.” Which is how greatness is, when you discover it, you just know.
Pieropan is limited in NZ distribution, try good Italian restaurants or poshslosh.co.nz
Glass half full by Timothy Giles
Timothy Giles lives a healthy life, balanced out by his love of wine, especially organic, biodynamic and well-priced wines. He’s here to share his favourite finds with other Grown Ups in a new weekly column called Glass Half Full.