Our travels in the Balkans: Korcula (Part 4)

Lyn’s travels in the Balkans: Part four

If you missed it, read Part Three about Dubrovnik.

After visiting Dubrovnik we travelled by catamaran to Korcula, the second biggest island in the Adriatic sea where there is another old Croatian town, for a three night stay.

The Krilo Star cruised at over 25 knots, about the same speed as the Waiheke ferries, although it is larger.

Our Apartment Marta, had everything we needed and was charmingly decorated. A neighbour, Teo, was available should we need anything. His family has lived in Korcula for 600 years.

This was the most peaceful place we have visited so far in Croatia and we really loved it there. Korcula town is an old medieval village on a small peninsula. Adjoining its small 13^th Century Cathedral is a museum in which there are many religious treasures including ancient hymnals (one dating from the 12^th century), a large collection of medallions, embroidered vestments and lithographs.

One evening we had a traditional Croatian dinner at a tiny family run restaurant about 100 metres from our apartment. I tackled a freshly caught sea bass with a chard and potato mash and John had handmade pasta with seafood. Delicious!

I discovered a little sweet treats and dessert shop called Cukarin. Here family recipes, which have been passed down through the generations, are lovingly being created by Smiljana Matijaca.

It’s a small world! When we told her where we came from she mentioned that her daughter lives not far from us in Auckland.

My favourite was the Amareto, a small round cake said to have secret aphrodisiac powers! Lemon flavoured it also contains ground almonds and orange peel. Smiljana is keeping the other ingredients a secret.

A recent innovation of hers, which I was allowed to sample, was the irresistible Bombica Marko Polo. Chocolate covered and shaped like a cannon ball it is named after the famous explorer who, it is claimed, was born on this island.

Smiljana admitted with a mischievous smile that it is a calorie bomb!

Teo advised us to take a bus to the small village of Racisce, a scenic ride along a winding road. We walked uphill from the village on a path lined with wild flowers and occasional olive groves. In this tranquil resort influential communist bureaucrats would have taken a break in times past but these days many of the real estate signs are in English.

The water looked so clear and blue we wished we had brought our togs. So the next day we did and bussed to nearby Lombarda. The seawater was gorgeous, about 24 degrees C, and dead calm.

After three sunny enjoyable days it was time to catch the Krilo Star again. This time to Split for a three night stay.

 

By Lyn Potter

Parent and grandparent, Avid traveller, writer & passionate home cook

Read more by Lyn here.