New Zealand is full of places we drive past without stopping. Our new Worth the Detour series takes a closer look at some of the smaller towns and unexpected attractions which can turn an ordinary road trip into a memorable day out.
There are some places in New Zealand we pass without giving them much thought. We see the sign, perhaps wonder briefly what lies beyond the turn-off, then continue towards somewhere bigger and better known. Matakohe, in Northland, could easily fall into this category. Just a little way off State Highway 1, this small rural settlement offers an unexpectedly rich day out, with an extraordinary museum, heritage buildings, gardens, a gentle bush walk and the quiet beauty of the Kaipara landscape.
Start with the story of the kauri
The reason most people come to Matakohe is The Kauri Museum, and it is well worth making the trip for. The museum explores the story of New Zealand’s mighty kauri trees and the industries which grew around them, from timber milling and gum digging to the communities built on the wealth and opportunities the forests provided. Its extensive collections bring together the natural history of the kauri, the tools and machinery used by the people who worked in the forests, and the everyday stories of those who lived in the surrounding settlements. The scale of the museum is impressive, but it is the connection between the kauri forests and the development of Northland which gives a visit its real sense of place.
Allow yourself plenty of time rather than treating the museum as a quick stop on the way somewhere else. The museum is open daily from 9am to 5pm, and the Gumdiggers Café is open from 10am to 3pm, making it easy to settle in for a morning or afternoon and stop for lunch or morning tea without having to get straight back on the road.
The museum could also make an interesting outing with grandchildren, with plenty to capture younger visitors’ attention alongside the history and stories behind the exhibits. From huge pieces of kauri and historic machinery to displays about gumdiggers and early settlement, there is plenty to explore together, with the opportunity to learn something new while enjoying the experience as a family.
Take a stroll through Matakohe’s history
Once you’ve finished at the museum, resist the temptation to get straight back in the car. Several of Matakohe’s historic attractions are close by, making it easy to spend a little longer exploring the village.
The Matakohe Pioneer Church is a beautifully preserved kauri timber church set among heritage rose gardens with views across the surrounding farmland. It is open daily and free to visit, offering a peaceful contrast to the busier museum. Opposite The Kauri Museum, the Coates Memorial Church and Matakohe Cemetery provide another glimpse into the area’s history, while the former Matakohe Post Office, built from locally milled kauri, has displays recalling the many roles such a building once played in a small rural community, from postal and banking services to telephones and government applications.
The post office is particularly evocative because it represents a time when a small town’s essential services were gathered together in one place. Before online banking, mobile phones and government services at the click of a button, the local post office could be the place where people collected their mail, made a telephone call, arranged banking and dealt with official business. It is a small piece of history, but one which may feel surprisingly familiar to many older New Zealanders.
Stretch your legs among the kauri
For a little fresh air, drive around 5km east of Matakohe to the Kauri Bushmans Memorial Scenic Reserve. The Kauri Bushmans Walk is a short, gentle forest walk, offering an opportunity to experience the kauri environment which gives the whole area its sense of identity. After spending the morning indoors, it is a pleasant way to slow the pace and spend some time among the trees. The walk is also described by DOC as suitable for children, making it another option for a multigenerational outing. As always when visiting kauri forest, follow the track and use cleaning stations where provided to help prevent the spread of kauri disease.
Make the journey part of the day
Matakohe is around a two-hour drive north of Auckland, or about an hour from Whangārei, so it is within reach for a day trip from either city. From State Highway 1, the turn-off at the Brynderwyn Hills takes you onto State Highway 12 towards Dargaville, with The Kauri Museum around 20 minutes further along the road. The museum describes its location as part of the Ancient Kauri Trail towards the Waipoua Kauri Forest and the Twin Coast Discovery Highway, making Matakohe a natural stop for anyone already exploring the wider Northland region.
For Aucklanders, the journey is long enough to feel like an outing in its own right, but manageable as a day trip if you are happy to make an early start. Alternatively, you could make the most of the drive by turning it into a longer Northland escape, with Matakohe as one stop along the way rather than the sole destination. The wider Kauri Coast and Kaipara region offer plenty of scope for those who prefer to travel slowly, stopping when something catches their eye rather than trying to cover as much ground as possible.
Sometimes the detour is the point
One of the pleasures of a trip like this is the sense of discovering somewhere without needing to travel to the other end of the country. Matakohe is not a destination requiring a packed itinerary or a long list of attractions. Its appeal lies in putting several modest experiences together: a museum which deserves more time than you might expect, a quiet walk among kauri, a wander through heritage buildings and gardens, and lunch in a small Northland community.