A Southern tour with a Southern Man – The deep South

7 years ago

Follow Alex on his tour of the south.

Part 1: A Southern tour with a Southern Man – Dunedin

Part 2: A Southern tour with a Southern Man – Catlins and Beyond

Part 3:

On a clear and bright morning, we drove up to Gore, the home of country music, to view the Hokonui Moonshine Museum. If you want a slice of what early life in this area consisted of, the museum has it all. So much memorabilia covering the 19th century and the hardships endured. Retreating to the effects of excess alcohol intake often was the only solace many had back in the 19^th century. Of course, this was all in the lead up to the Temperance Movement. Reading many of the stories of life in this area during that time, it is easy to see why the majority took the latter route.

After returning to Invercargill it is a quick trip down to Bluff taking advantage of the fine weather to view the true Southern Ocean. Amazingly it is a beautiful calm day, typical of what we are enjoying as we travel south, unlike the weather bomb that is plaguing the North of the North Island. Whilst in Bluff we enjoy the best oysters known to man along with another large piece of Blue Cod. Of course, this just has to be washed down with another glass of Speights.

The people of Bluff must be hardy as even the vegetation has a distinct stunted Northerly lean developed over many years. Most of the houses and buildings show signs of weather wear quite unlike any I have observed before, even on Wellingtons southern coast. It has the air of a very solid community if the limited contact we have with locals is anything to go by.

I save the best (in my opinion) for last. A visit to Invercargill wouldn’t be complete without time spent in Bill Richardson’s Transport World in Tay St. Viewing the building from the road with its Art Deco style exterior I am in the mood to see the theme continue inside.

I am not disappointed.

This is an asset all Southland will be very proud of. Bill Richardson’s legacy will ensure future generations have a better appreciation of all modes of transport in New Zealand from 1904 onwards. Cars, buses, trucks and tractors plus an enormous amount of memorabilia including old fashioned petrol bowsers are on display, in many instances in pristine condition. If you aren’t into the transport side of the Museum, there is a wearable art display on the mezzanine floor.

As a Baby Boomer, I recognise a large number of the vehicles and memorabilia from my youth. I could spent hours wandering through the displays but there is more still to come just down the same road at the Motorcycle Mecca where there is a repeat of the above but related to Motor Cycles. Of course recognising the feats of the now famous Burt Munro was the perfect start to this exhibition. Add to this a broad collection of artwork and posters and you can appreciate this is a great way to end the day in Invercargill.

An early start the next morning has us heading along the Southern Scenic route with our ultimate destination Te Anau.

Highway 99 takes us through Riverton, the second oldest town in New Zealand after Russell. It is a beautiful quaint town nestled around its harbour. Looking out at Ruapuke and Stewart Islands I wondered what this southerly aspect does for the locals. In winter they would face a blast from the south. However I am impressed with the quality of housing, many built to take advantage of the sweeping views across the bay towards Invercargill. The shops are a mix of new and very very old. Nothing more than 2 stories high. There is still a great deal of building going on so this town is obviously prosperous.

We then drive on through magnificent rural scenery arriving at the small town of Orepuki. This town has so much history. From a personal perspective, it is the birthplace of my maternal Grandmother. On the main road, there is a cafe called The Orepuki Beach Café that serves magnificent food and great coffee. When I mention to the cafe owner of my heritage he points out a small collection of folders that capture the thoughts, history, and articles of the area since the town was first built. Orepuki has the distinction of having had one of the earliest police stations in New Zealand (opened 1862) and once was the site of a start-up company trying to mine for coal. The beach of black sand is renowned for giving up small quantities of gold so in days past families actively panned the sand for it making a living.

A trip to the local cemetery reveals some grave sites of my ancestors so that will go into my genealogy file.

Onwards to Tuatapere which has the dubious distinction of being called “The Sausage Capital of the World”. Someone has a sense of humour. Unfortunately, I never have a chance to taste the local product as we are off again to Te Anau.

I am finding the scenery amazing in this part of New Zealand. Highway 99 is probably not traveled enough with Highway 6 the more recognized route to Central Otago. However, if you are prepared to take the drive you will never regret it as the scenery on this route is hard to beat.

Just down the road from Te Anau is Manapouri. Obviously a favourite fishing lake, there are a large number of cribs (the southern name for a batch) through to palatial homes. Obviously many have retired to the area for the local lifestyle. I can’t fault that as if I was a keen fisherman it would be difficult to beat Manapouri on a fine day.

On to Te Anau which is becoming a largish town catering for the tourist, especially the young ones. We’re here for 2 nights so we can have a leisurely drive to Milford Sound to see what is regarded as the 8th natural wonder of the world.

By Alex Sharp

Look out for Alex’s next post next week. In the meantime read more by Alex on GrownUps here or follow the rest of his trip below.