Make no mistake – there will never be enough time to view the myriad treasures on the narrow, coastal highway which snakes its way for 20 kilometres from Waikouaiti to Warrington Beach, just half an hour north of Dunedin. That’s why we’ve chosen 4 of the best for you to visit.
Matanaka historic farm buildings
Like Grahame Sydney paintings come to life, five of New Zealand’s oldest surviving farms buildings (still in their original position) cluster together in an open field high above the ocean close to the township of Waikouaiti. Whether you’re stepping into the little tongue- and-groove- lined school house or the two storied stable festooned with feeding troughs, hay-loft and original saddlery, it’s immediately obvious why these atmospheric buildings have been given a Grade 1 Historic Places listing. Given the treasures they hold, including a canvas long boat reinforced with supplejack vines, it’s hard to believe that the Matanaka Farm buildings are unstaffed, unlocked, and waiting for you to discover
Hawksbury Lagoon.
From the car park at the top of the hill, it’s a just a short 10 minute walk to the buildings, access to which is from 8am-6pm (closed for lambing – 14 August – 1 October).
Off Beach Street at the eastern entrance to Wakouaiti lies 64 hectares of water bird paradise. Originally a site of Maori fishing and eeling, the earliest European settlers to the region immediately set about draining the wetland which was once thick with flax. The reserve (which is now designated a Wildlife Refuge and an “Area of Significance”) is crisscrossed with flat, well-maintained pathways that make for a perfect stroll and a chance to get up-close to the lagoons many birds. The trustees of this fascinating open space have set about planting it in cabbage trees, toi toi and flax and a short bridge now links the lagoon to a pathway which meanders through pines beside a wide drainage channel. Expect to have excellent views of swans, several varieties of ducks and geese, shags and spoonbills. And keep your eyes peeled for the occasional visiting white heron!
Karitane’s ‘Salt & Sugar’ General Store and café
Almost too good to share, the seaside village of Karitane is reminiscent of a Cornish village. Fishing boats lie in shallow water at low tide and gulls hug the jetty. But don’t be deceived. In summer, the community is buzzing, and right at its heart is the quaintest of general stores. ‘Salt & Sugar’ boasts a delightfully unmanicured exterior, while inside, the shelves are filled with fresh, often organic, produce proudly displayed in baskets or tucked into brown paper bags. Herbs and spices, local potatoes, exciting condiments – and even a few items of vintage clothing – bring the shop to life while, out the back, there’s a café treat waiting to be discovered. Hand crafted rugs, quirky table settings, tin can lampshades, and loads of books team up with the best (and cheapest) espresso you’re likely to find this side of the black stump.
St Barnabas, Warrington – the church in the Hollywood movie!
In any season, the road between Karitane and the seaside settlement of Warrington is a photographer’s dream. Dramatic views of sea cliffs and wild surf appear around every corner so it comes as some surprise to suddenly happen upon a sweet slate-shingled lych gate and a church that comes straight out of an English village setting. Warrington’s historic Anglican church of St Barnabas is dripping in exquisite stained glass windows and despite it’s Hollywood fame (it featured as a location in the movie ‘The Light Between Oceans’), its quiet, wooden interior is always accessible as the church is never locked.