GrownUps New Zealand

Behind the scenes of an Antarctic Expedition

From vast icescapes and cavernous glaciers to iconic wildlife and dancing Northern Lights, Antarctica is unlike any other place on Earth. Some parts of the southernmost continent have never felt human footfall, and at the best of times you’ll feel a million miles away from civilisation. It’s impossible to explore independently, which is what makes specialised South Pole voyages so unique.

Late last year, Fernando ​de Rito was offered a once in a lifetime opportunity to spend 10 days on-board a luxury Antarctic cruise ship. In search of some genuine insight, we asked Fernando all the questions we bet you’re dying to throw at him.

What made you want to travel to Antarctica?
Being from Argentina, I’ve always dreamt of going to Antarctica. It’s the closest country in the world to the South Pole which makes it a jumping point for research expeditions and luxury cruises alike. I suppose the sheer isolation and amazing wildlife was the biggest attraction, plus no one lives permanently in Antarctica which means there are no commercial industries, no towns and definitely no cities. If you though deserted beaches were relaxing, Antarctica goes one step further.

What is it actually like down there?
Antarctica is by far the most pristine place I have ever been. Despite the fact that it’s almost two times the size of Australia the continent is still very much untouched by humans. It’s basically a vast desert covered in snow, and it’s surprisingly dry. In fact, it almost never in Antarctica. You really get the feeling you are at the end of the world.

Antarctica is described as a bucket-list experience. Why do you think that is?
Ultimately, it’s sheer scale and isolation that make Antarctica so unique. Some of the icebergs are two times the size of Auckland! There’s literally nowhere else on earth where you can cruise alongside such massive mountains of ice, or attempt to spot some of the most elusive wildlife on earth.

What can potential explorers expect to see during an epic journey to Antarctica?
While Arctic cruises are incredible, Antarctic voyages are in a class of their own. Expect titanic icebergs, snow covered mountains, ice everywhere and wildlife encounters that give Planet Earth a run for its money.

What was your favourite Antarctica moment?
Seeing an Emperor Penguin was definitely a highlight. They live close to the South Pole so they are notoriously difficult to see, even though some of them are 1.5 metres tall. Last time the ship crew had seen one was 15 years ago.

We’ve heard Drake’s Passage is quite perilous, how did you “survive” it?
What makes Drake’s Passage so dangerous is the fact that the seas can be incredibly rough. But all ships are manned with a doctor which means there’s always sea sickness medication available during the 48 hour crossing.

Any top tips for combating sea seasickness and finding your sea legs?
Just like altitude sickness, once you get it there isn’t much you can do. I’d advise visiting the ship doctor, taking seasickness pills and inquiring about a sea motion patch from your local GP.

What wildlife did you encounter?
For most people wildlife is an invigorating highlight. There’s nothing quite as exciting as spotting an enormous Emperor Penguin strutting around on an ice shelf, or seeing 300,000 Adelie penguins bustling about on the same beach. Trust me, it looks like something straight out of a National Geographic documentary. Seeing majestic killer whales leaping out the water was an unforgettable experience, and I also saw an endless line-up of leopard seals, dolphins and sea birds.  Basically, don’t forget your binoculars.

We suspect it’s very cold! What packing tips would you recommend?
Definitely pack gloves and warm socks, and don’t forget plenty of merino wool for layering.  It’s amazingly warm and surprisingly lightweight. The average temperature was -5C and when it was windy it could get down to -30c within minutes. Most ships will provide you with a jacket but you’ll definitely want to pad it out with your own layers. And don’t forget, when the sun shines you’ll burn even more easily than usual as it reflects off the snow. Don’t forget to high factor sunscreen and apply regularly.

Aside from exploring an exceptional terrain, are there additional activities available?
The diversity of shore excursions is incredible, with lines going above and beyond to showcase the region. Seriously, forget what you know about day trips and shore excursions. From high speed Zodiacs and ice kayaks to snow shoes, helicopters and submarines, cruising unlocks so many amazing ways to see Antarctica. Some companies also specialise in Antarctic skiing and overnight ice camping which could be an option for thrill seekers.

If you had a customer interested in a similar voyage, what advice would you give them?
Definitely do it! A very low percentage of the world population has been to Antarctica so it’s pretty incredible to be one of them. There is no experience like it, and if you love travel but have been craving an adventure that pushes you out your comfort zone it’s the perfect antidote. Just remember to bring a genuine sense of adventure as it’s certainly not a walk in the park, even on the most luxurious ships.